The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Calling all W-1 experts

I have been busy installing and trying to get my dual W-1 set up running. Full throttle is great, part throttle I can deal with later, but the idle is terrible. The rear carb will not respond to mixture adjustment. I can run the screw in or out with out any effect. A slight choke will smooth out the idle. I have had the rear carb off four times and still see no problem. These are #574 Carters.

I tried to open the low speed idle jet tip a little so it would " seat ",it didn't help. I did manage to split the tip slightly but it still seated Ok, from what I can see of the wear marks on it. Send me a note if you have a old one laying around you don't need. I read this on another board, " they will not idle right with old idle jets, but you can make them work by opening the flare back out"



Where to next? Pull off both carbs and compare parts and clean the rear one again. I bead blasted them last time with real fine glass beads, then soaked them in carb cleaner, followed with high pressure air. They sure looked cleaned.

Joe

I don't know what I am talking about, but what happens when you switch them? As a troubleshooter, this is what you do.. then it provides clues on the problem. You cant just assume the problem would be switched.

Do you have the correct gauge for setting the metering rod?

You may need to raise the float level a little.

Did not try and switch them, I removed the whole setup and went back to the single carb till after the weekend show ii am going to. I hate going places when its not running 100%.

The metering rod adjustment is for the mid range, don't think it effects idle, but then I am not 100% sure of that. I do not have a gauge, but I did set both the same using a dial indicator. I figure I can tune mid range and fuel economy by adjusting the hight of the rod.

For now I am looking for circuit diagrams to see how the idle circuit gets its fuel and how it gets to the engine.

I am open to any idea's on what to look for. I have been working on these for a year off and on, cleaning, building, setting linkage, making a filters, etc... I was hoping I them right.

Joe

you probably got blasting media stuck somewhere you don't want it. There are too many small passages in a carburetor to be sandblasting.

I have a W1 in the garage with a split low speed jet and I can tell you it will not run right. What I did is buy a "parts" W1 and used the jet from there into my rebuild.Carb King has new jets you can call Him.

Pete

Pete, thats my next move. I am on the look out for one now.

When I bead blasted them, my media was almost powder since its pretty old. Even new glass beads are very small. I used shop air, 150 psi to blow them out. I don't believe its plugged with media, rust maybe as these were really dirty cores when I got them.

Joe

Joe - in the for what its worth category:

I learned (the hard way, naturally) that glass beads accumulate static electricity, especially with cast iron castings, and CANNOT be completely cleared with air pressure. I learned to ALWAYS wash the castings with pressurized water through all passages on cast iron castings. The older the beads, the more static electricity.

Once I acquired the ultrasonic cleaner, 30 minutes in it following glass beading would suffice. I no longer had to blow pressurized water through the passages.

And I am assuming you have already checked that the throttle positioner screw on the carb that does adjust is not in so far as to prevent adjustment on the carb that will not adjust.

Jon.

I've always wondered about using alumabrite, I know it takes rust off too....

No glass beads left, I gave it a really good wash down and more air cleaning today. I believe I found the problem. I installed bronze bushings in the throttle shafts bores on both carbs. The rear carb that was acting up didn't have all the bushings in one side. The short side only took one bushing, the long side takes about one and half of the size I have. I must have got busy and forgot the 1/2 piece. This leaves a pretty big vacuum leak around the shaft and the throttle blade. Today I pressed in more bushing till it was sticking out into the throttle bore. I carefully filed it down to match the inside diameter and radius of the bore. I believe it will respond much better to tuning now. I also solder up the small crack in the low speed jet were I broke it. The soft solder formed a good seal so I hope that is taken care of.

Next week I will reinstall the set up and see how it runs. The little I drove it, it responded pretty good, even with fuel from last November! It was almost empty so my short drive was to the gas station.

Joe