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#946816 05/30/2013 2:22 PM
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Hey all! I'm on my second rebuilt steering box and this one is leaking as well. My old school mechanic friend said that 'back in the day' they used to just pack grease in the box... anyone heard of this?
Thanks!


Larry Bear

55.5 Chevy 3100 Panel
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Larry Bear #946826 05/30/2013 3:05 PM
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Yes, I think you will find plenty of discussion on proper and improper lubrication for the steering box. I assume the 55.5 MY is similar to my '52 manual recirculating ball steering box. If it is leaking, why not rebuild it and then use the proper self leveling grease. I think if you pack the box with grease, the bushings and lower mast bearing are going to take a beating.

Larry Bear #946827 05/30/2013 3:07 PM
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What grease have you used? A self-leveling grease is called for; gear oil would leak out and chassis grease is not self-leveling.

http://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Special-Purpose-Corn-Head-Gun-Grease-AN102562.html


Larry Bear #946829 05/30/2013 3:13 PM
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I wonder how many guy's "back in the day" used a cheaper/easier/"Ahhh I have this so I'll use it" product than what was designed and passed on worn out units 20 years later?

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Larry Bear #946981 05/31/2013 9:04 AM
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Mmmmm.... I'm using 80W-90 Gear Oil.... Never knew or read otherwise about using a "self-leveling grease" like the one Tim recommended. I presume you just shoot it into the top access plug.

Just yesterday, she started with this little "grab" - when driving - after I take a curve on a road to the right, when returning to a straightaway or into a left curve, I can feel this little "catch" - just a momentary little "catch" - sort of like when my elbow gets a crick.

I agree with CASO when folks would just do a make-do based on what was on hand. That's why I've asked the question. My buddy is outstanding (he won a Ridler)... but he tends to be cheap. LOL


Larry Bear

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Larry Bear #946982 05/31/2013 9:05 AM
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Grease is the answer, John Deere corn head grease, self leveling, flows back on itself yet will not leak out of the seals. $3.00 per tube at most John Deere service centers or online. One tube will do a gear box. Axle grease will only get pushed out of the gears and not return, thus after awhile the gears run dry. 1/2 gear oil, 1/2 axle grease is a option.

Joe

Larry Bear #946993 05/31/2013 9:22 AM
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I found the easiest solution (what I did) was a combination of 120W gear oil and (regular bearing) grease. I mixed a batch to the consistency that I wanted. Definitely self leveling and thin enough to flow into the bushing (via oil feed groves) and lower mast bearing.

Larry Bear #947053 05/31/2013 2:07 PM
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So apparently "grease is the word"....Sorry couldn't resist.

Thanks for the input!

Last edited by Larry Bear; 05/31/2013 2:08 PM.

Larry Bear

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Larry Bear #947188 06/01/2013 2:56 AM
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Hmmm it only references to car steering gears????
They are pretty much the same in the trucks.
Don't forget though that the lube needs to flow, a grease is too viscous.


CHEVROLET SERVICE NEWS JANUARY ,1957, VOLUME 29 NUMBER 1.
"STEERING GEAR LUBRICANT"

Lubricant recommendations for 1955-57 passenger car steering gear have been changed to discontinue the use of "Muti-Purpose" lubricant and recommend in its place "Chassis Lubricant."
The use of "Steering Gear Lubricant," where available, remains authorized.
Coincident with the change in lubricant recommendations, service personnel are advised that the steering gear lubricant level should be maintained 3/4-inch below the filler plug hole instead of level with the filler hole as previously prescribed. The reduced level lessens the possibility of lubricant being forced out of the steering gear box during the pump action that rsults from fast turning of the steering wheel.


Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks.
Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.


As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
Larry Bear #947196 06/01/2013 6:39 AM
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It is a grease, a self-leveling lubrication grease (NLGI grade 0 grease - I think that NLGI grade 00 grease is also self-leveling).

The much more expensive Penrite steering box lubricant is grade 00.



Larry Bear #947201 06/01/2013 7:46 AM
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A person can put what ever they please into a steering box but the fact remains why so many are worn out...improper lubrication. Regular chassis grease doesn't do anything under the extreme pressure created in a steering gear. It also fails to lubricate the bushings because of the pressure. The chassis grease just moves away from the pressure and doesn't offer any lubrication.

Larry Bear #947255 06/01/2013 1:05 PM
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How about CV joint grease? I don't know if it's self-leveling though.


Ed
Larry Bear #947262 06/01/2013 1:20 PM
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CV grease is NLGI #2 - like peanut butter (as described at the NLGI link, above).

Larry Bear #947275 06/01/2013 2:22 PM
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How about I mix up some peanut oil and some Vaseline? not me
First I'll dip the unit in a vat of that stuff they advertised at NASCAR years back that once you used it the engine would run WITHOUT oil... Then it shouldn't matter!


Give me ambiguity
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Larry Bear #947402 06/02/2013 3:52 AM
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Some months ago I talked to a steering gear rebuild outfit about the proper oil for them. I was told SAE90 gear lube. Gear lube has lots of EP additives. What is the EP rating for that John Deer corn head grease?


Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks.
Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.


As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
Larry Bear #947411 06/02/2013 7:22 AM
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What EP additives/compounds are you referring to?

EP additives in grease

Deere Corn Head Grease has EP additives, but they are undefined here.

Use whatever you want, and clean up more drips from 90 wt oil than you would have to clean up from a self-leveling grease. Be sure to check the level of your steering gear lubricant very often if you use oil. Most likely, if it stops dripping, you should add oil.

tclederman #947602 06/02/2013 11:00 PM
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I've tried everything mentioned in this post and there is nothing that won't leak out right on top of the exhaust header pipe down the pipe almost back to the muffler. On top of that, it bakes on and it's like the stuff in a well used oven. The only way I can get if off is with steel wool and lacquer thinner. I've rebuilt the box two times!
G-r-r-r-r-r-r-r-r-r-r-r-r-r!


"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!"
My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.
Operators are standing by to take your calls!
Now cruising in the Passing Lane
Larry Bear #947630 06/03/2013 4:50 AM
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I had my steering box rebuilt and they told me to use 90 weight gear oil, which I did. It has never leaked a drop since. If you look at the seal, the lip doesn't allow for much sideways movement or misalignment. Thus the bushings have to be accurately honed on installation. Some of the rebuilders will use a chroming process on the end of the shaft to bring the seal surface back to standard.

I would be concerned about a "catch" in the steering. If it doesn't go away with more lube, you have a problem with a vital part.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
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truckernix #947632 06/03/2013 5:30 AM
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Originally Posted by truckernix
I had my steering box rebuilt and they told me to use 90 weight gear oil, which I did. It has never leaked a drop since. If you look at the seal, the lip doesn't allow for much sideways movement or misalignment. Thus the bushings have to be accurately honed on installation. Some of the rebuilders will use a chroming process on the end of the shaft to bring the seal surface back to standard.

I would be concerned about a "catch" in the steering. If it doesn't go away with more lube, you have a problem with a vital part.

I agree. If it leaks then someone is not assembling it correctly. Also the key is to not fill it full, there has to be room for expansion etc. Maybe a vent is needed to prevent pressure build up in the box and forcing the lube past the seals???

In the video of the corn head grease, it looks like it may have some sort of particles added to it?? Not sure I'm asking. If so it is not a good lubricant for a recirculating ball system, the lube for them should be clean with no particulates added, like moly or ?


Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks.
Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.


As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
Larry Bear #947647 06/03/2013 8:35 AM
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I don't see how pressure can build in the box as there are no seals up the mast jacket and out the top bearing. The box needs to be full enough to properly lubricate the lower mast bearing.

Larry Bear #947657 06/03/2013 9:26 AM
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Corn head grease has no "particles" in in, its a smooth grade 00 grease made for slow turning gear cases.

The leaking seal on the pitman shaft has more to do with the shaft movement then the grease. Bushings need to be tight. On my '37 gear box, I added a much longer bushing that went clear to the seal, this removed any deflection from steering force and kept the grease where it was suppose to be. I don't remember if the '41 gear box had the long bushings or not. The parts manual listed the bushing for the '37 as a " cure for chatter and binding".
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/parts/1929_54/410.htm
Group number 6.855 PN 266300

Might be something to look in to on the newer boxes.

Joe

Joe

Larry Bear #947723 06/03/2013 4:39 PM
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Thank you gentlemen!


Larry Bear

55.5 Chevy 3100 Panel
In the Stovebolt Gallery


Larry Bear #947743 06/03/2013 6:31 PM
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Hi Larry!


~ John

A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.

1949 Chevrolet 3804
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Larry Bear #947775 06/03/2013 8:59 PM
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Gear oil leaking and baking on to the exhaust pipe is a scenario I can relate to but the corn head grease made that go away.

Joe,
If it's still getting out I can only see excessive shaft/bushing clearance or a poor seal as suspects.



1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod
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Curt B. #947818 06/03/2013 11:19 PM
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Still looking after it, but I will say that an overfilled steering box is not good, as mentioned. It can go up the column and come out of the box at the top of the box where the column bolts to the box. There is not a seal there and it will come out there. So, don't overfill the box.


"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!"
My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.
Operators are standing by to take your calls!
Now cruising in the Passing Lane
Larry Bear #947884 06/04/2013 9:20 AM
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I agree, don't overfill. But, the proper lubricant level will be so that the lower bearing is just in the lubricant so it can pick up the lubricant and keep the bearing happy. If I remember correctly, my box has a gasket between the box and the mast jacket base assembly.

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Hi John! Hope all's well with you and Peggy! Been pretty swamped with all of the going's on - including building the new truck after Lucille got whacked. Liking this ride a lot and it's more suited to the store - but it does pose problems when I need to get mulch or a sheet of plywood. Mmmmm, I'm thinking I may need an old pickup as well!!

Good to hear from you!
Larry


Larry Bear

55.5 Chevy 3100 Panel
In the Stovebolt Gallery


DavidF #947918 06/04/2013 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidF
If I remember correctly, my box has a gasket between the box and the mast jacket base assembly.

I remember making a replacement one shown here in the shop manual as #10-Housing end cover gasket.








1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod
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