Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,042 Posts1,055,519 Members48,424 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 | Does anyone know if the 2 pieces 1/4 by 1/2in. with 4 holes that join the two windshield frames are the same angle as the cab or are they slightly more angled so as to place additional pressure on the outside ends of the frame. I cut these out of the frame to get the two halves apart; because they were rusted into the frame. I made new ones from aluminum but I might remake them from brass. The steel piece I copied had an angle which is more than the cab angle. The little "T" shaped sheet metal pieces are the same angle as the cab. Thanks. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 402 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 402 | Can anyone help GW out with this?
GW...can you post a pic or two to help answer your question?
| | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | When I did mine, the old ( original ) window frame was badly rusted, but I was able to get the angled pieces out. The new frame I purchased ( Carter ) came with new angle bars, that were slightly more bent than the originals. I opted to reinstall the old bars as I was sure they would fit correctly. They angle the frame to match the cab evenly. Outside corners fit a little on the loose side, however, with a good flexible gasket ( Steeles Rubber ), its 98% weathertight. I have seen a few '46's with cam type handles on the inside "A" pillar, which pull the frame tight, and appear to be a stock item ? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 1,122 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 1,122 | I may be able to help, but it may later today or tomorrow before I can dig out the part and post a photo. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 | Hi; Thank you all. On page 2 of my photobucket about in the middle I have a photo of the bars. The old rusted ones are slightly more angled than the cab. My new aluminum ones I made I think I angled too much. I suspect the angle should be smaller than the cab angle to force the corners in tight. I did order the Steeles rubber because of all the posts on this forum. I am thinking I'll make new ones out of brass. If anyone knows how it should be that would be great. Doing door body work today in the rainy northwest. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 1,122 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 1,122 | | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 | Thank you. I,ll check mine and see how close to 11 degrees mine is. Thank you very much. Is yours original? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 1,122 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 1,122 | Yes. That angle seems odd to me the more I think about it. I'm going to triple check it this morning.
Rechecking shows angle at between 11 and 12 degrees. Checking the cab angle indicates the angle there is about 2 degrees more than the frame.
Last edited by 46Sparky; 05/28/2013 10:42 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 | My original metal piece is 15 degrees the way you are measuring. I checked my cab angle and it is 167 degrees. The metal V joining piece is 165 degrees. What this does is places the outside corners about 3/8in. closer to the body than the center (using that trig math I learned years ago). This is a good thing I think. Thank you for helping. Now I just have to decide if aluminum is the right material to make the V with. I don't want the V to rust to the frame again. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 211 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 211 | I'm tuning in to this, As I'll be doing this real soon, Anyone know the best vendor for V-Bars? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 1,122 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 1,122 | GW Glad I could help. One thing about these trucks is, the fit and finish from the factory was nowhere near what we all expect and demand now. I guess that is, in part why thick rubber gaskets are used in some places. Ahhhh trig....dang those were the days...... 72: Sorry, but I don't know a source for the angled metal tenon. I imagine a machine shop could easily make one though. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 | They sell the V part at several of the old chevy parts dealers. Yeah I was thinking as I painted the inside of my doors after work today that this truck has way more paint on it then the factory ever applied. And I need to figure out a door gasket that the trucks never had. But that's part of fun? So much work I hope it lasts for a few years! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 176 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 176 | Aluminum is easy to work with but can fracture after time with vibration. Stainless is harder to work but would be a more permanent fix and also would not corrode? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 138 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 138 | I bought a new frame and the two connecting pieces are angled differently and I am having trouble fitting the frame and gasket in to the cab correctly. The frame fits in the cab about 1/4 inch low. Any thoughts on how to correct this? | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 | Raise the hinge with spacers. The hinge sits one a metal cross piece. Space it up off the cross piece. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 | I just painted my org. frame. It is 15 inches across the open end and about 14.75 inches across at 3 inches in from the closed end. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 138 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 138 | Thanks for taking those measurements! It turns out I can shim the windshield but it just seems too tall to fit in the cab recess. If the rubber around the frame was 1/8 inch narrower it would fit but I got the rubber from Carter's so I assume it is right. Frustrating! | | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,321 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,321 | I bought a new frame and the two connecting pieces are angled differently and I am having trouble fitting the frame and gasket in to the cab correctly. The frame fits in the cab about 1/4 inch low. Any thoughts on how to correct this? I have a set of original V connecting bars and the top & botttom are the same.Hope this helps. Harold
Harold Is a restoration ever finished? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 138 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 138 | Thanks Harold, the v-bars are part of the problem then. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 138 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 138 | I measured my frame and it measures like yours. Is it possible the rubber gasket around my frame is too wide? The gasket I ordered from bowtiebits extends 9/16" from the frame. My truck didn't have an old gasket so I don't know if that could be the problem. I am assuming the gasket/windshield unit sits in the indentation of the cab but now the bottom rests outside the indention. I did end up spacing the hinges up as high as they needed to go so now the windshield fits the top pretty well. Harold in another post told me the vbars need to be identical so that accounts for a minor bit of he problem. | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | I had bad luck with rubber from Carter. Seemed very hard. Steeles Rubber is much better quality in my opinion. Flexible / seals to body better. | | |
| |