The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline rear crank seal replacement

I'm in the middle of changing the rear rope crank seal of my 235. The lower rear bearing cap came off without problems. However, the upper rope seal is a different story. It was cut flush with the block and I have no seal to grab on to so that I can try to pull it out. I tried pushing it from one end with a flat punch but it did not slide at all in the groove. I thought putting the new one on would be a challenge, it appears I've got my hands full with taking this one it out. Anyone with ideas/suggestions? I have loosen the other crank bearing caps and the crank drop roughly 1/8". Dan

I usually loosen the rod nuts, unbolt the transmission and slide it back enough to allow the trans front bearing retainer to clear the bellhousing pilot hole. This lets the crank drop enough to work on the seal.

Getting the old one out can be quite a job. The kit has a screw with a handle on it. You thread it into the end of the seal and pull. A wood screw, about number 8 would probably do the trick. I used a broken coping saw blade to stick up between the block and the seal to try and break it loose.

For installing the new one I used picture hanging wire tied to the end of the seal. I use a screwdriver to guide the initial bit into the groove.

It took me 4 hrs to get the upper crank seal out. Wow. It was just fallen apart on me, took it out strand by strand. I fitted the new one just to try out on the lower bearing cap. Is it normal for the gasket seal (from Best Gasket) to stick out 1/8 above the groove of the bearing cap. The original was flush with the cap. I'm never done one of these and don't want to do it over in a few weeks from now. The engine is a 235 off a 53 GMC

The seal needs to be trimmed once it is fitted in place.

"Best gasket" brand has instructions you should follow.
There is a guide in the kit for trimming the ends to the right length.