The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Driveshaft Decision

What should I do about choosing a driveshaft? One-piece or two-piece? Like to go one piece. Truck had original two-piece which I removed along with old 4-speed box, that's now a 5-speed. With the slip yoke in place and pulled back 3/4 - 1", I'm left with about 64-ish inches to bridge.
I'm not entirely sure if engine hp/torque and rearend set up have any bearing on this matter. If they do it's a 350 with bolt-ons perhaps 350hp ( perhaps 400 in a crowd) and probably a similar number for lbs/ft. Rearend is 12-bolt limited slip.
Anyone out there able to throw light on this subject?

If you have a "driveline" shop around then visit them and ask for their recommendation.
I work part time for Carolina Driveline and Tom has been doing this for over 30 years. From tractor trailers to rock crawlers he can build about anything. It all plays a part in what you need so decide how you want it to be. You could go aluminum, steel and a couple other ways to get what you want. I can say he converts a lot of 2 piece to one piece driveshafts but again, depends on what you want to do.

I went to a 1pc driveshaft on my 65 20 yrs ago. best decision I ever made ...don't have to deal with hanger bearings anymore.
http://s946.photobucket.com/albums/ad304/radical65gmc/

I am new here. I have a 65 c10 long bed with a 700+hp small block and the stock 2 piece. I drive it on the street every weekend. It holds up fine. Big rigs have 2 piece driveshafts and 1800 ftlbs of torque. Mines never bound up or anything. I also cant get traction to save my life. Just my 2 cents.