The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Need Advice 54 Chevy Head NOS restoration - see: PICS

Greetings from New Jersey , I need some top shelf advice on restoring my 1954 Chevy 235 Cylinder Head GM NOS. Obviously it has has surface rust. To be expected as it's almost ( 60 ) years old. I feel fortunate to have this NOS head to work with.

I have the following GM NOS parts for the head.

1.) Intake Valves ( 6 )
2.) Exhaust Valves ( 6 )
3.) Intake Valve Guides ( 6 )
4.) Exhaust Valve Guides
5.) Valve Springs ( 12 )
6.) Valve Spring Retainer Caps ( 12 )
7.) Valve Retainer Locks ( 24 )
8.) Rocker Shafts ( 2 )
9.) Rocker Shaft Springs ( short & long )
10.) Rocker Shaft Support Stands with bolts ( 6 )
11.) Rocker Shaft Oil Connector
12.) ALL ( 12 ) correct Rocker Arms with adjuster screws & nuts
13.) Pushrods ...full set of ( 12 )
14.) Rocker Shaft Washers ( 2 )
15.) End of Rocker Shaft Hairpin Locks ( 2 )

So, I've collected everything GM NOS for a 100% Brand Spanking new Cylinder Head assembly.

Now on to QUESTIONS:

1.) Would you magnaflux the head for cracks ?
Just to be sure.

2.) No porting & polishing is wanted.

3.) Valve Guides look good inside...they could be cleaned with a fine rifle bore type brush OR replace them with GM NOS new guides ?

4.) Now would be the time to do hardened valve seats on the exhaust. What would you advise ?

If the exhaust seats are to replaced......what part brand ?
Anyone have a good source based on actual experience ?
What brand of exhaust valves ?
Source for new hardened exhaust valves ?

5.)Head looks to have some very minor pitting on the sealing surface. Maybe mill it 5 thou ? And go from there.

Any other suggestions are most welcome.

End result desired.
Everything clean - perfect - a real show piece.

All of my collection of nos parts have been cleaned.
Many have been polished with semi-chrome polish.

Thank You,
George

see: PICS of Cylinder Head , below


http://s669.photobucket.com/user/glp0329/media/1b235ChevyGMNOSHead_zps38636822.jpg.html?sort=3&

http://s669.photobucket.com/user/glp0329/media/11235ChevyGMNOSHead_zps18218651.jpg.html?sort=3&

http://s669.photobucket.com/user/glp0329/media/10235ChevyGMNOSHead_zpsb695f1e1.jpg.html?sort=3&

http://s669.photobucket.com/user/glp0329/media/9235ChevyGMNOSHead_zps6d6f90f6.jpg.html?sort=3&

http://s669.photobucket.com/user/glp0329/media/7235ChevyGMNOSHead_zps347ee7eb.jpg.html?sort=3&

http://s669.photobucket.com/user/glp0329/media/5235ChevyGMNOSHead_zpse694dc76.jpg.html?sort=3&

http://s669.photobucket.com/user/glp0329/media/4235ChevyGMNOSHead_zps045e2ab7.jpg.html?sort=3&

http://s669.photobucket.com/user/glp0329/media/1b235ChevyGMNOSHead_zps38636822.jpg.html?sort=3&

http://s669.photobucket.com/user/glp0329/media/1a235ChevyGMNOSHead_zps37db4e59.jpg.html?sort=3&

http://s669.photobucket.com/user/gl...ead_zps8846023c.jpg.html?sort=3&o=13

I don't know where you found all those NOS parts but being able
to gather up all the parts to build a fresh brand new head is
quite a feat.
I don't see anything there that couldn't be cleaned up with some
wire brushing and WD-40/scotchbright pads.
There is no need to replace the guides, the original valves are
just fine, most of them lasted 50-60 thousand miles in the
original engines. No need to insert hardened seats the stock
cast iron is fine for 50-60 thousand miles also.
If it were me, I'd do just as you suggested and run a wire brush
thru the guides drop the valves in with a little Clover lapping
compound and see what the seat looks like. It should give you a
fine even line, you want about a 1/32" to 1/16" on the intakes
and about 1/16" to 3/32" on the exhaust.
Other than that you should have a head that will run for a good
many years with out any trouble.

Denny G

Are there any other options other than WD40 & a brush
to clean up the rust ?

How about glass beading with fine beads ?
or
I've read parts like this can be oven baked to
remove the rust. I don't know the details on oven baking.
I only remember reading about it.
or
How about a ultra sonic cleaning dip tank ?

Just thinking about other cleaning options.

George

1. Magnaflux is a non-destructive form of testing and would not harm it however the pc. must be clean.

2. Wouldn't provide any noticable benefit anyways.

3. Pressing out/replacing valve guides would immediately destroy it's NOS status. If it's new what would be wrong with them?

4. Hardened seats are a non stock modification/machining which also will destroy the NOS status. I have seen more stories of hardened seats failing/coming loose than problems associated with leaving it as is.

5. Skimming the face is corrective machining which will also destroy the NOS status.

It's probably safe to say that any interaction between a cutting tool and a NOS part means the end of that. If you intend to use the parts none of this matters.

Nor is any machine work necessary with new parts. The rust that
I see in the pictures is very minor, nothing to worry about.
Could you bead blast it? of course you could, but I doubt that
it's needed.

DG

I've decided to not install hardened valve seats on my NOS cylinder head.
This truck will not be a everyday driver.
My restoration will be a nos restored show truck
and only driven out of the garage onto the trailor
and then off the trailor at shows.
I can't see anymore than a handful of miles per year.

The head will need a very light milling of the mating surface of the head because of a couple of 1 " square areas that has a little more than superficial rust pitting.

I'm going to use this nos head on my original engine block.
The block is code dated:Oct. 5, 1953
This nos head is dated: Oct. 9, 1953
To me it seems like a great match.
Original head is dated: Sept. 25,1953

I looked on the net today.
I do see many shops that offer cylinder head cleaning.
Thermal cleaning seems interesting followed by shot peening.
I don't have the usual baked on crud like used heads.
I just have surface rust.
One possibility is just have is shot peened & pressure washed.

Another option: I could get a bucket of plastic shot and blast it myself in my blast cabinet.
The plastic shot would certainly get rid of the rust.

I must say, I do like the look of a shot peened finish.

Thank You to all that have posted on this cylinder head.