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#940430 05/02/2013 10:46 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,254
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,254
I had my 60 full flow 235 drilled for a remote oil filter. I mounted it to the fire wall and connected black rubber lines. They are approximately 30 inches long. Not sure if I like this look.

Does anyone have any pictures of filter placement? If yours is on the fire wall what type of lines did you run?

Thanks


Dennis
-there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 50
C
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 50
I put mine on the side of the engine block with a bracket I made. I used an fittings and black braided nylon -8an hoses. Looks clean and simple. I'm still waiting on my line clamps that should be here soon to tidy the lines up a bit.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q268/cotsi95/chevy%203100/photo1_zpsdda73df2.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q268/cotsi95/chevy%203100/photo2_zpseb26ca49.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q268/cotsi95/chevy%203100/photo3_zps7c593e84.jpg


52' Chevy 3100 5 window
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
On a 1960 261 that has 1/2" NPT fitting and lines for the standard full-flow oil filtration system, I have used the factory canister full-flow oil filter mounted on an original intake manifold (forward to the carburetor), a remote spin-on filter head mounted on the firewall, and a remote filter head mounted on a custom-made plate attached to the side of the engine.

I went to the after-market spin-on filter heads because the stock canister filter could not be mounted on the dual carburetor intake manifold. For the after-market spin-in filter-heads I chose locations where I could easily and cleanly take off the filters.

In the next few weeks (I hope), I'll be putting the original full-flow canister filter back on the original intake manifold (using a single two-barrel carburetor).

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,254
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 2,254
Thank you for the pictures. I really appreciate them


Dennis
-there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,847
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 1,847
wish I could figure out how to post pictures, I did mine in very shiny copper, I'm kind of leery of it, but that is what they used for the rocker arm oil line, but at least this is where you can see it if it starts to leak.

Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 50
C
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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The problem with copper lines is that they can harden do the vibrations and crack. That's why I went with -8 an lines. However it's quite a bit more expensive. I think I have 80-100$ in the fittings and lines.


52' Chevy 3100 5 window
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,847
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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The real reason I'm not extremely worried is they are only about 8 inches long, and there isn't a straight portion to vibrate. I will take a photo, and see if my wife will help me with the pictures. I'm actually kind of proud of my tubing, it only took 3 tries to get it right.....

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,254
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 2,254
Where did you get the lines? I was quoted around $200 for both if they are 30 inches long. Is that right?


Dennis
-there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 50
C
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 50
If your asking me I got my parts off summit racing. I just got the adapters I needed along with the fittings and 6 ft of an line. Then cut and made them myself.


52' Chevy 3100 5 window

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