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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,090 Posts1,056,027 Members48,432 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | I think you are making a mountain of a mole hill here. Maybe put some teflon tape on the threads, fill it up with your grease and call it a day. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Where was/is the O-ring? I do not recall seeing an O-ring (54 and later distributor). Is there an o-ring in this 1954 diagram or in the 48-52 diagram? My 54 and later grease cup "inserts" do not have that curled metal. I wonder if that was more commonly found on the older style distributor? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 | There was a hard/dried/crumbling O-ring behind the "fingers" in this pic of my oil cup. I assume that the O-ring sealed against the threaded sides of the oil cup as it was tightened. > Grease Cup partsNone of the diagrams/pics in your links or any other pics that I could find show the cup separated from the part that inserts into the distributor. It was not discussed in my Shop Manual or in Delco manuals on-line. The pics in the manuals were taken at an angle that hides the bottom of the cup so you can't see the O-ring if it were present. Denny's picture is like my grease cup. Jimmi_V's is not. JiMerit Boltr#43, I'm not comfortable using teflon tape on fine threads, so I went with a cobbled together O-ring. I tried spreading the fingers of the insert. It was obvious that they will stress fracture if bent. I intalled a #10 11/16" OD X 1/2" ID X 3/32" rubber plumbing O-ring over the fingers, then stuffed it behind them as best that I could. It settled under a few of the fingers and wedged against the tips of the rest so that the OD of the O-ring is larger than the threaded part of the insert. I screwed the insert into the cup. The O-ring sealed the insert against the cup. I blew into the hole where the grease exits and no air excaped around the O-ring, so it seals tightly. I filled the cup with red chassis grease and installed the insert. The new O-ring is difficult to see in these pics: > Rubber O-ring on insert> Rubber O-ring on insert (top view)> Completed Grease CupCan't install the completed grease cup into the distributor until I fabricate a fiber plug between the spring and the distributor. Any suggestions? 1/8" thick seems a little thin and difficult to position in the hole. Is there a tail on the plug that sticks into the end of the spring? Thanks, - Lonnie
- Lonnie My '54 3104Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post. lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt. OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | There was a leather ring around that area originally. It might be easier to replace the grease cup now that your has been disassembled.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | Can't install the completed grease cup into the distributor until I fabricate a fiber plug between the spring and the distributor. Any suggestions? 1/8" thick seems a little thin and difficult to position in the hole. Is there a tail on the plug that sticks into the end of the spring?
Thanks,
- Lonnie There is no tail, just a flat disc about 1/8" thick. It can;t go anywhere, the spring holds it in place. I make new ones out of Nylon for the ones I work on.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Lonnie,
I have never seen a fiber plug for sale. Maybe someone will post information on a good replacement part.
I remember finding that plug in one of my distributors. When it wears away is there just spring-to-distributor shaft contact?
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 | Thanks Dave -
Where can I get a new grease cup? Will it have a leather ring? I'll be driving about 100mi this weekend. My rubber O-ring should last that long ... shouldn't it??? What's the long term prognosis of the rubber O-ring soaked in chassis grease?
Any suggestions for making a fiber plug to go between the spring and the distrib shaft?
- Lonnie
- Lonnie My '54 3104Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post. lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt. OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 | Thanks guys - Glad to know that 1/8" is the correct thickness. I bought some large diameter 1/8" thick fiber washers at a surplus electronics store today. I'll try to cut/sand/whittle a plug from them. > Tim - yes it looks like the spring is rubbing against the distrib shaft. I poked around in the greasy goo in the hole in the distributor with a Q-Tip and couldn't find a plug. See the worn spots on the spring in this pic. > Worn spots on springLooks like I'm gonna "engineer" this thing back together in time to meet Wayne, Jeanie, and some friends at a good car show this weekend. - Lonnie
- Lonnie My '54 3104Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post. lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt. OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all | | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 163 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 163 | I made a new leather from an old belt. Work it over the tabs, get it good and wet, let it dry out. That will shrink it in place and then trim and file to the correct OD so the cup will thread over it. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 | cassie -
Sounds good. That may be my next project. Just gotta get this thing running for this weekend. Then go back and do it right.
- Lonnie
- Lonnie My '54 3104Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post. lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt. OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Dave hit the nail on the head Lonnie. There was a leather washer that was capture by the folded over fingers, and I agree with you, better be carefull bending them, I don't think they will take very much at all. You Might try stuffing a leather shoe lace in behind the fingers. It's just a seal to keep the greas from oozing out when it gets hot. MacMaster Carr still sells the grease cups and they look pretty much the same as the original ones. I used them on a couple of distributors that I restored. I'd take a picture of them but they'er in a box somewhere, the big move you know!!!! Also, for the rubbing block or disc I bought some phenolic round stock from MacMaster also. The original is as Dave mentioned only about a 1/8" thick. I turned them to the diameter and then used a cut off tool to slab a bunch off. They're in a box somewhere also otherwise I'd send you a couple: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/131948503 When the disc is kept greased they don't cause much wear to the shaft or to the disc it self. In fact I've never see any wear at that point on any of the shafts that I've taken apart. You should have it in there though, the metal to metal contact of the spring is not a good deal. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL Let me add this to the thread. This picture shows the leather seal pretty clear. This out of my '50 distributor and below the greas cup it shows the metal disc and felt wick that this one had in it. The metal disc does show some wear and I can't say for sure if it was original to this distributor. From what I was told buy the original owner it had never been serviced other than the normal grease jobs and oil changes: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/112215604/original DG
Last edited by Denny Graham; 04/24/2013 8:07 PM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 | Is the plug 5/16" or 25/64" diameter?I talked to a guy at Old Car Parts...He gave me some info. Grease Cap Plug...Group # 2.364 5/16 diam. x 1/8 thick fibre # 1869303 The '29-'54 MPC lists felt wick for '29-'53 216s @ 5/16" diam X 3/32" long. And felt wick for '50-'52 235s @ 25/64" diam X 1/8" long. No plug or wick shown for 1954 235s. > Group 2.364, 1929-1954 MPCThe '29-'57 MPC also shows the 25/64" X 1/8" felt wick for '50-'52 235s and for V-8s, but nothing stated for '54. OOPS - looks like I'm renewing the felt vs fiber debate again!!> Group 2.364, 1929-1957 MPCI cut some fiber plugs from a large fiber washer with a couple of plug cutters for wood, then sanded to near size with 100g paper. Pretty simple. Wanna make sure that I know the right dimentions before I proceed to final size. 5/16" = .3125"; 25/64" = .3906" > Top = .328" X .129"; Bottom = .393" X .129"Do you think that the fiber material will be OK? It has a thin hard cover with a composite interior that reminds me of MDF. Don't know if it will swell or will easily wear through the hard coating. I'll soak some scraps in light oil overnight. Now that I have a process, I can make plugs out of other substances if you think necessary. (Including felt!) Thanks, - Lonnnie
- Lonnie My '54 3104Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post. lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt. OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 | Well, I answered my own question.
I inserted some drill bits into the threaded hole in the distributor for the grease cup to determine the diameter. 5/16" is the correct diameter for the fiber plug in my distributer. According to the bits, 11/32" is the exact diameter of the opening. 5/16" leaves a little room for grease to flow past and lube the shaft. A 25/64" bit would not fit.
I soaked the fiber-type material that I used for the plug in VM&P Naptha and in 30w non-detergent motor oil over night. They were not affected.
I sanded the edges of the plug to 5/16" diameter. I didn't attach any felt to the plug.
Dabbed some red chassis lube into the hole, then pushed the plug into the hole. Inserted the spring. Filled the hole with lube. Screwed the grease cup assembly into the distributor and turned the cap a turn and a half. Lube didn't ooze past the rubber O-ring. Went for a drive. Was still running when I returned and it didn't blow up, so I guess it's OK!
I'll check the plug in a few months. If it's wearing badly, I'll turn a new one from a nylon rod.
Thanks for your help.
- Lonnie
- Lonnie My '54 3104Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post. lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt. OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all | | |
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