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#935198 04/12/2013 5:48 PM
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on my switch, the ceramic is just about all gone on the resister spring, is there away to reapply it or is there something else I can use to recoat it. 53 3100 Root

root #935209 04/12/2013 6:15 PM
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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the coil 'spring' is not coated with anything, it needs to dissipate heat and is mounted on ceramic, one style for example

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
root #935212 04/12/2013 6:40 PM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Originally Posted by red58
the coil 'spring' is not coated with anything, it needs to dissipate heat and is mounted on ceramic, one style for example

Bill
Bill,

I'll see if I have a decent switch that still has the ceramic. This is not they right style switch, but some of my 47-55 switches still have ceramic remaining. The coil goes around a ceramic cylinder and there was a coating on the outside (you can some some of the exterior coating chipping off of the coil at the link above).


Maybe Brad or someone has a NOS switch and can post a photo of the resistor coil?

tclederman #935213 04/12/2013 6:47 PM
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This type
...?...




DADS50 #935214 04/12/2013 6:50 PM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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DADS50, yes

Here's another one, not a big photo, but it shows the coated coil.

root #935223 04/12/2013 7:19 PM
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Another one, I have often wondered if something like cold enamel or similar would work for a repair but have not experimented with it yet?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129352382/in/set-72157631868452754

root #935228 04/12/2013 7:34 PM
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If it's the original style toggle switch, then the resistor is
wound on a hollow ceramic core then coated with a heat
resistant ceramic wash. Here is a series of pictures of one
that I rebult/restored for my 1950, 3604:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/129207282
The hight temperature ceramic was a product that I got from
Sauereisen high temp. Cements, http://www.sauereisen.com/
Without the ceramic coating the resistance wire will oxidize quickly.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Last edited by Denny Graham; 04/12/2013 7:38 PM.

Denny G
Sandwich, IL
root #935234 04/12/2013 7:51 PM
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Just saw your reply Brad. I went thru a bunch of things before I
settled on the correct coating. As hot as it get you really
need to have a high temperature ceramic coating or it will just
cook it off.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL


Denny G
Sandwich, IL
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Thanks Denny I had always been a bit curious since I had several marginal used switches. I should have figured you would know the answer on electrical items.

root #935286 04/12/2013 10:14 PM
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thanks Denny thats the ceramic coating i was looking for. Also thanks for all the help everyone. Root

root #935336 04/13/2013 2:02 AM
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Denny, did you have any odd or residual smells when running your 'rebuilt' heater switch on low the first time?

I bought one awhile back that was supposed to be NOS and it was in almost perfect shape so I had no need to question it. I did think the coating looked off in color compared to my original but I assumed it was just because mine was well worn. When running on low I can smell it, not quite a burning scent, but close. I'm now fairly certain it was a new (or close to new) switch that someone may have broken the coating on and replaced it with something that was more resin based so they could sell it as NOS.

Jeff


My 1953 Chevrolet
1947.1 Gallery
1972 C-10 1/2 Ton & 1972 C-30 1 Ton
root #935346 04/13/2013 7:41 AM
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No smell with the Sauereisen high temperature cement, that's what it's made for. The
problem is the only way you can get a small amount is to buy a sample package of all
their products, which at the time was close to one hundred dollars. I don't remember what
the smallest quantity of the cement alone was but it ran into the hundreds of dollars so I
opted for the sample kit to see how it would work. The material has a short shelf life so I
didn't what to have a gallon of it spoiling on the shelf.
As you can see from the pictures, I had planned on dismantling and restoring those
original toggle switches. New long rivets have to be fabricated, in most cases new switch
contacts and often the dropping resistor is burned out. I could not find enough cadavers to
justify the cost of the replacement materials. As it turned out, everyone that had them
thought that they were worth their weight in gold, even though they didn't work any more
and the ceramic was chipped off the resistor.
I did experiment with several other coatings and they all did outgas producing a strong
smell in the cab when the dropping resistor was in the circuit on the slow speed. The
worst one was when I used Plaster of Paris mixed with CA, that one almost did me in. I
tried porcelain mixed to a slurry but that has to be fired to harden it or it just crumbles
when air dried.
Denny G


Denny G
Sandwich, IL
root #935422 04/13/2013 2:32 PM
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Thanks for the info Denny.

I know what you mean about the cost of switchs. When I first bought my '53 I thought they were to expensive for NOS switches. A few years later when I got serious about buying a spare, the prices had doubled if not more.

I either use the heater or don't, so it's never used on low. Either high to defog the windows or it's summer time and doesn't matter!

Jeff


My 1953 Chevrolet
1947.1 Gallery
1972 C-10 1/2 Ton & 1972 C-30 1 Ton
root #935446 04/13/2013 4:57 PM
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I'm on my second switch. Both new (can't remember the numbers) and made for 6V heater applications. And yes, when on low, it will get hot and if there's any coating on the wire (even temp coating to keep from rusting) it will smoke and smell until it burns off. At least that's been my experience.



David Gilmore
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