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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,270 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 339 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 339 | on my switch, the ceramic is just about all gone on the resister spring, is there away to reapply it or is there something else I can use to recoat it. 53 3100 Root | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | the coil 'spring' is not coated with anything, it needs to dissipate heat and is mounted on ceramic, one style for exampleBill | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | the coil 'spring' is not coated with anything, it needs to dissipate heat and is mounted on ceramic, one style for exampleBill Bill, I'll see if I have a decent switch that still has the ceramic. This is not they right style switch, but some of my 47-55 switches still have ceramic remaining. The coil goes around a ceramic cylinder and there was a coating on the outside (you can some some of the exterior coating chipping off of the coil at the link above). Maybe Brad or someone has a NOS switch and can post a photo of the resistor coil? | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | DADS50, yes Here's another one, not a big photo, but it shows the coated coil. | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | If it's the original style toggle switch, then the resistor is wound on a hollow ceramic core then coated with a heat resistant ceramic wash. Here is a series of pictures of one that I rebult/restored for my 1950, 3604: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/129207282 The hight temperature ceramic was a product that I got from Sauereisen high temp. Cements, http://www.sauereisen.com/ Without the ceramic coating the resistance wire will oxidize quickly. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Last edited by Denny Graham; 04/12/2013 7:38 PM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Just saw your reply Brad. I went thru a bunch of things before I settled on the correct coating. As hot as it get you really need to have a high temperature ceramic coating or it will just cook it off. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,597 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,597 | Thanks Denny I had always been a bit curious since I had several marginal used switches. I should have figured you would know the answer on electrical items. | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 339 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 339 | thanks Denny thats the ceramic coating i was looking for. Also thanks for all the help everyone. Root | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 | Denny, did you have any odd or residual smells when running your 'rebuilt' heater switch on low the first time?
I bought one awhile back that was supposed to be NOS and it was in almost perfect shape so I had no need to question it. I did think the coating looked off in color compared to my original but I assumed it was just because mine was well worn. When running on low I can smell it, not quite a burning scent, but close. I'm now fairly certain it was a new (or close to new) switch that someone may have broken the coating on and replaced it with something that was more resin based so they could sell it as NOS.
Jeff | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | No smell with the Sauereisen high temperature cement, that's what it's made for. The problem is the only way you can get a small amount is to buy a sample package of all their products, which at the time was close to one hundred dollars. I don't remember what the smallest quantity of the cement alone was but it ran into the hundreds of dollars so I opted for the sample kit to see how it would work. The material has a short shelf life so I didn't what to have a gallon of it spoiling on the shelf. As you can see from the pictures, I had planned on dismantling and restoring those original toggle switches. New long rivets have to be fabricated, in most cases new switch contacts and often the dropping resistor is burned out. I could not find enough cadavers to justify the cost of the replacement materials. As it turned out, everyone that had them thought that they were worth their weight in gold, even though they didn't work any more and the ceramic was chipped off the resistor. I did experiment with several other coatings and they all did outgas producing a strong smell in the cab when the dropping resistor was in the circuit on the slow speed. The worst one was when I used Plaster of Paris mixed with CA, that one almost did me in. I tried porcelain mixed to a slurry but that has to be fired to harden it or it just crumbles when air dried. Denny G
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 | Thanks for the info Denny.
I know what you mean about the cost of switchs. When I first bought my '53 I thought they were to expensive for NOS switches. A few years later when I got serious about buying a spare, the prices had doubled if not more.
I either use the heater or don't, so it's never used on low. Either high to defog the windows or it's summer time and doesn't matter!
Jeff | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 687 | I'm on my second switch. Both new (can't remember the numbers) and made for 6V heater applications. And yes, when on low, it will get hot and if there's any coating on the wire (even temp coating to keep from rusting) it will smoke and smell until it burns off. At least that's been my experience.
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