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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1
G
New Guy
New Guy
G Offline
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1
I have a 1966 C30 4x2.I would very much like some info
on the possibility of OE swapping front components from
another GM (later) vehicle. Would this be possible?
I have a couple of likely candidates, 75 and 87 burbs,
both are 3/4 and 4x2's. Please tell me I'm not crazy!

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,101
3
3B Offline
'Bolter
'Bolter
3 Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,101
Hy gary c, I don't have a parts book which covers light duty up into the 70s, which is when front disc brakes began. According to one of my brake catalogs the hub and rotor for the dual rear wheel truck are the same from 1974 to at least 1986, the calipers are the same from 1979 to at least 1986 (the last year of my catalog) This does not address whether the disc brake steering knuckles are adaptable to your upper and lower control arms. One thing I did learn (by experience) the disc brake knuckles are thicker on the bottom and possibly the top, than their drum brake counterparts, so you'll have to buy ball joints for disc brake application, sorry I cannot be more definate than that.

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 725
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 725
You want '75 - '88 for your brakes. Get the whole cross member and you'll have a quieter tighter front end.

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,775
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,775
I went throught the Timken catolog trying to decide if your hubs/bearings were interchangable. It seems as though the 1 ton trucks used the same bearings from 63-70 and 1970 on up used a different part number. The 3/4 ton had a couple different variations, but the 71-89 trucks did use the same outers as the 63-70's. So it may be possible to use a 70 and newer hub on your truck. Your best bet is to get a verneer caliper out and start measuring. http://www.timken.com/en-US/product..._Seal_Application_Catalog_1989_older.pdf

Another optin is to find a hat-type rotor and go over the top of your hub. You'll have to work out the caliper and mounting brackets though. Here's a link to what I'm trying on my 54. www.photobucket.com/whitedog76pics.


1954 3600 Chevy Truck
"The Fake Truck"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
The easy way out would be to use the entire knuckle setup from a '71-'86 C30/'88-'91 R30. The balljoints will require swapping out, Moog K6122 upper and K6129T lower, you may also need to swap out the tie rod ends, which would be ES409RT/ES409LT (2 each) and 2 ES2004 adjuster sleeves.


Bill Burmeister
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 99
6
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
6 Offline
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 99
My 66 C-30 is getting a 73 C-20 swap. I didn't change the crossmember but the rest of the suspension parts. Control arms, spindles, and steering set up. It all blots up,but if you change the crossmember, there is a bolt hole to drill or 2.

Another site provides this data that may help.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showpost.php?p=4450757&postcount=3

Dave.


Dave.

What's the last thing a red neck says, "Hey guys watch this."
What's the last thing a redneck hears, "Go ahead Bubba, you can do it."

Build plan: 65 Chevy one ton, 5.9L Cummins HO, NV5600 six speed, 2wd 1972-1987 IFS disk front, frame off restore/mod, custom dump/flat bed, Alcoa rims, Dana 70 3.73:1 duals drum rear, plush interior, Guards red with Marine Corps decals. Donor is retired 2002 Ram 2500, 194K miles.

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