The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 1950 3100 heater question

Not real sure what i have. I havnt been able to figure out from the previous posts in the forum search as to what i need t make this operational. The truck will heat up real nice after i drive it a bit which wont be so good this summer. I know I am missing the hoses and duct vents for the defrost, there are controls under the dash on the heater unit but nothing to hook them to to actually control it and there is both one orange wire in the cab and one in the engine compartment. Does anyone have any pics of what the system is supposed to look like? I am assuming I am missing the fan and fan motor in the engine compartment. I have up loaded 2 photos to my photo bucket link. Thanks in advance for your help. Steve

Well one thing you can do is put in a valve in the engine bay to shut off water supply. That will insure no heat in summer. Didn't know some of the heater stuck out like that. Thought they were all inside cab. If I am seeing that right, you are getting fumes/smells/heat inside cab from engine thru that open hole? AD folks will help further.

Doesn't look like a factory heater, but a shut off valve would work.

You have an aftermarket heater, the two common heater options look like this.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129448404/in/set-72157631868452754
As stated to kill the heat you will have to stop the coolant flow. They build quite a bit of heat without a fan and some will drive you out of the cab with a fan. Most heaters are easy to remove should you want to see how to hook it all up. Most have just one or two wires, various fan arrangements, a simple switch, that's about it. I have found well over a dozen different types of aftermarket styles, Firestone, Stewart, B.F. Goodrich, Sears and Montgomery Ward to name a few.

Well we will see if i can find an original heater in charlotte in a couple of weeks, is there a better advantage of one over the other on the original equipment? (airflow or reserculating) ALSO what does this valve look like and were can i get one? thanks steve

Recirculating is less expensive (more common) and easier to install (fewer parts). It heats and defrosts fine.

The airflow (fresh air) is the deluxe model - more controls and has an automatic heat control valve. It is more expensive and has more parts to install.

This type of valve on the water pump will keep heat out of the cab.

O'reillys has a valve for $13 PN 84707. Or any valve rated for hot water at home depot. You can also just plug the inlet and outlet at engine block. The problem with used heaters is the core ALWAYS leaks when you get it hooked up. New cores are mega bucks. You can leak test them but not at a swap meet. There is a new, non-original available that fits right in for about $185. Check the internet first to see core availability and prices at all the venders to decide which used heater to buy.

future plans are the vintage heat and ac, so with that might just take it out seal it up, has anyone just purchased a u-fitting 5/8" and looped it back through? cant seem to find one on the net, any suggestions? thanks for all the help. Steve

I have looped a 3-4' length of heater hose and ran that way for at least 5 years (kept me running and kept the heat out of the cab).

I doesn't need to be looped. Two pipe plugs will do the trick.

I was being cheap, fast, and simple, Cletis.

I had hose/clamp, but no plugs. I used the heater hose that stayed on one fitting, and attached it to the other fitting - done in about one minute. Appearance did not matter to me at that time, on that truck.

I know what you mean, Tim. I live out in the country. I can do a lot of fixes that don't require going to town for parts.

Copper elbow or copper pipe to connect two hoses and let the hoses U, does not have to be an actual U. U know what I mean?