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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 130
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 130
For 49-3100. Is there a adjustment nut on the starter foot pedal or linkage so the linkage pushes the starter button further in? Any photos or diagrams would be great. Thanks

Joined: May 2012
Posts: 574
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 574
if its the same as a 55 stomp start pedal it just is screwed on and you adjust it by tightening it or loosening it


Indy wink


1949 Dodge Coronet
1955 2nd Chevy 4400 1.5 ton
1955 2nd Chevy 3100 1/2 ton
1955 2nd Chevy 3100 1/2 ton
1957 Chevy 5400 LCF 2 ton
1966 Dodge D100 Sweptline
1968 Chevy P20 stepvan
1969 GMC LWB pickup
1972 GMC Sprint
1974 CP30 shorty bus

There are three things that I've learned never discuss with people: religion, politics, and the Great Pumpkin.----Linus Van Pelt
Trying to understand the behavior of some people is like trying to smell the color 9 big_eek



Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
if you're meaning the button on top of the starter isn't making electrical contact, that's a problem inside the box under the button, not with the linkage to it, unless there's extreme wear on the [non-adjustable] linkage

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 130
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 130
I can push the button on top of the starter and the truck will start. When I use the foot pedal the linkage does not depress the button far enough. Since the linkage is non-adjustable looks like the only fix is to make a longer rod to depress the button more.

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
be better to figure out just what's happening, the factory pieces should work without modification - you likely have wear on the face of the pivoting piece that hits the button, as well as wear of the big copper chunk inside the switch - might fix it by a spot of weld on that lever piece or turning the copper piece over, possibly by just dressing that copper piece back to shape, they tend to get dirty and eroded from arcing

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bill is still correct. The copper-button on top of the starter or contact-button inside the starter switch is worn.

I have temporarily and safely gotten by the situation by taking a small length of water hose and slitting it open. Then, place the piece of hose over the button on the top of the starter switch (keep a spare piece of slitted hose, in case the piece on the starter switch falls off). This is called a jack-legged (jerry-rigged, jury-rigged, shade-tree, half-aXXed) repair.

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,596
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,596
Here is a link to the manual so you can see how it is all set-up. The part referred to is an off the shelf item at NAPA.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm1218.htm

Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 899
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 899
I have a nut on the starter button shaft (cab side) that I use to tighten the shaft after it's threaded into the linkage stub. My starter button shaft doesn't protrude thru the linkage stub on the engine side. If the end of your starter button shaft is hitting the bellhousing prior to the starter switch being fully pushed down use of a nut like I have may help.


Ed
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 130
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 130
I should have mentioned in my original post that my starter and starter switch are brand new.
I'll look at the starter button in the morning. Can I get to the jamb nut on the starter button from inside the truck thru the floor or is it all from under the truck?

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,596
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,596
Insider or outside if you depress it. The button threads on to the shaft and the jamb nut is part of that shaft.

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
the jam nut is to keep the pedal from coming loose, I doubt you can gain any increased pivoting by fiddling it .... if you've changed the switch box on the starter, maybe you need to build up the button, sort of like Tim suggested above, but more permanently

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1
T
Moderated
Moderated
T Offline
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1
From experience with the exact same problem I removed the rubber cover of the foot feed then ground off the end of the hinge pin, removed the pedal and silver soldered a thick piece of flat metal to the underside of the pedal being careful to leave just a tiny bit of clearance between the pedal and the starter button then finished up by finding a bolt to the same size as the hinge pin and re-assembling the foot feed. Worked for me from Jr, thru Senior high school years.


Moderated by  Gdads51 

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