The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 57 6400 with Heil 4yd dump...

Kinda what I thought Mike.

Thanks for the clarification.
Cool on the Oakland manufacture.
I'm from Oakland too, now a NV resident -- same as the truck.

Now to look up clearances and whatnot for that 292.
Time to get the valve adjustment tools out, do the timing, check points, adjust the carb etc.

Didn't get a minute to fiddle with it today, tomorrow I'll air all six tires properly and take it for another tour down the hill and into the valley.
Hoping the front end feels better with proper tire pressure :-)

Also, it's somewhat nice to see that any two hundred buck small block eight will slip in there if ever necessary.


-John

John-Nice tip in the Tech section,in the "Engine Bay". "Adjust Them Valves" gives procedures,as well as clearances,for a 1/2-hour job,from tear-down to completely re-assembled! only need to turn the engine TWICE!! SWEET TRICK!! IT WORKS!! I copied mine,and keep it in my repair manual.WAY better instructions than the manual. Saves time.

Thanks Bill

I'll look there.
I've seen some super 292 mania out there. I'll try to steer clear of HotRod madness while I'm in the engine bay...





John

Sucks they don't make Fenton's for'em yet.I LOVE 'em on my 261. Performance increased,as well as fuel mileage. then you get the SOUND,as a BONUS! I think I saw a thread in the "Engine Bay",about someone installing a set (Fentons),on a 292. Takes some grinding,and some thought,but,it can be done.If interested,it's good info.

Bill-

I'm not prepared at this point to go down the 'liner hotrod route.
I very much like the sound and appeal of a tuned six, would really like to have a balanced/flowed/built six on a supercharger -- on someone else's dime. That would be cool as can be.

This 292 just isn't interesting enough to me to pursue with my pocketbook. If it doesn't work out within a close budget, I'll just find a small block truck engine and swap it. That would be (by far) the best bang/buck and also likely the easiest solution to any horsepower problem I encounter with this truck.
Now that I've learned the vin history - that the rig was originally set up with the little V-8 and that this six isn't at all orig to the truck, I'm much more inclined to go the way of the eight for practical purposes.

Still my intent is to run it as I found it, and I'll enthusiastically do whatever I can to make it work just the way it is. I think I'll be able to get by - we'll see!





-John

Good luck!! You know what you're doin'! Just glad to be along for the "ride"! I'm not "hot-roddin'" my '55,either. I just like the looks of the "stacks",The better performance,(and fuel gain),achieved,and the sound of the duals. That's as "hot-rod",as I'm going. I don't see the sense of "running 2-carburetors,on 1-1/2-tons,and larger,un-less you are planning on pulling a trailer,often. I'm out to squeeze the best economy that I can,out of the stock set-up.Friend just bought a gas-powered generator,and an air-compressor,from the same store,at the same time. The generator kicks-out,before the compressor even gets up-to-speed! No air,no wrenchee,grindee,paintee,etc. That's why I'm leery of transmission/rear gear swaps!! Go through all the money,time and trouble,just to find that you're engine doesn't have enough power,to effectively perform in O.D. Have fun with the V-8 swap! That's what your truck was born with! Have fun,and keep us posted,please!

I'm still pacing things here one step at a time.
Current hurdle is the rear wheel lug nuts.
3/4" drive equipment hasn't survived the attempts to remove the right rear wheels, must get in there to free a stuck wheel cylinder...




-John

I had to use a 1/2"drive breaker-bar,with a 3' pipe extension. After hopping on each lug for about 5-minutes,they finally gave-in! Make sure to pre-soak the lugs with "Kroil",or a good brand of penetrant first. I soaked them and let it "soak",for a week. They musta been torqued at 350 ft. lbs!! Hope this helps.

Bill-

Thanks for the tip. I have already taken a 3/4" breaker bar out of index (at the swivel tip) on these lug nuts. I've ordered some Armstrong 1" drive equipment off eBay (scored some goos deals) and I'm waiting on the new 1"drive breaker bar.
Should be here today or tomorrow.
Been hitting them with Kroil daily.
I'll report when I get the 1" drive tools on them.
Hoping for success!




-John

I hope you get them off. I also broke a 3/4" drive breaker bar on my F-350 a couple years ago. After 30 or 40 years those nuts get rusted on pretty tight!

Wait 'til you break-down the tires! If you don't have a duck-bill mallet/proper pry-bars-find some on e-bay,or other sources. I think Mike B. knows of a supplier?

1" drive equipment did the trick. Took a jack stand under the breaker bar pivot and me jumping on the end of the bar handle, but those nuts are now free.

Later I'll get the wheels and drum off, then free the sticking wheel cylinder.





-John