The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop valve help

i need some hep guys .. i been told that i need to adjust my valves when engine is hot ,,, my problem is when motor is hot they are fine , its only when i start it cold that they are loud ,,, can i go out after it sits for a few days and adjust them then and will they be ok that way and not too tight after it gets hot ??

thanks
p.s. its on my 1958 biscayne 235

Hydraulic lifters - right?

yes

Sounds like the lifters are bleeding down when the car sits.

Every hydraulic lifters that is holding a valve open bleeds down when the engine is off.
With new lifters some can have too tight of a clearance between the piston and the body and they can stick in the collapsed position until the lifter warms up. Once warm the body expansion releases the piston and the lifter will work normally. Over time this type of problem will go away as the lifter wears in.
If this is a used lifter the same problem can occur because off sludge build up inside the lifter causing it to stick.

so you saying do nothing right now ?? or adjust them again cold or hot

thanks

I had the same problem. After sitting a little my lifters were noisy as heck. They quiet down and stay that way after driving a little.

Run it some. How many miles since you had it rebuilt?

If the lifters are sticking when cold you definitely want to adjust them hot.

Just the ticking when cold it driving me crazy lol

Thanks

Don i would say 500 maybe a little more

Turn up or install a radio

I think i am going to give it 1 mote shot to adjust them, , the book says 1 1/2 turns after 0 lash, ,, now 0 lash is were there is no more play in the pushrod?
seems like a lot 1 1/2 more? ?
thanks

Yes zero lash is no play and you can hear it. 1/4 to 1/8 turn at a time, or less when you get close and wait a few seconds until the lifter settles to be sure. I've always done hydraulic lifters while running and hot. Low idle though or you are going to need a bath in solvent.

If your engine is cold and you adjust, you may get an over tight condition when it gets hot.

I'm a V8 guy, maybe a 6 guy can confirm.

It is to hard to keep a screw driver on the adjuster to adjust the when running, completely different than a V8.
I know it has been argued that 1 1/2 turns is to much, but Chev set them that way for 12 years (1950-62). I have been setting them that way for close to 40 years with no problems.

So there ya go, silly me. I'm thinking modern lock nut you just torque.

found this
http://www.cs.siena.edu/~lederman/truck/Docum ents/...

have i been doing them wrong all these times ?? i was finding TDC #1 and doing 1,, and so on ,,, it says here #2 and 3,4,5 are not done at the same time ,,, could this be the reason i have loud lifters when cold they are not done right , i was doing the intake and exhaust at the same time ???
??thanks

Your link is broke so we have no reference to your comment.

At TDC for every piston both valves will be completely closed. So you would adjust each at the same time. Unless there is something I don't get about a sixer.

That is the way I do it. You just need to be sure the valves you are adjusting are both closed. The easiest way for a novice to confirm this is by adjusting the cylinder/plug wire the rotor is pointing at.

So with the rotor button pointing at the correct plug wire, that cyl the valves are closed and do them both at the same time? !,, here is the link it works for me http://www.cs.siena.edu/~lederman/truck/Documents/Adjustment%20of%20valve%20lash.htm
It shows doing 2345 seperate looks like?
Thanks

...link...


Here is another
...link...

Both those processes that've you place #1 at TDC then set 6 identified valves
1 Exhaust
1 Intake
2 Intake
3 Exhaust
4 Intake
5 Exhaust

Then place #6 at TDC and set the other 6 listed valves
6 Exhaust
6 Intake
5 Intake
4 Exhaust
3 Intake
2 Exhaust


If you followed the instructions you should be ok. Set the clearance to the type of lifter you have. The second link has some notes for hydraulic

Yeah thats the link, , see there 2,3,4,5 are set set at the same time?
I might be getting somewere now
Thanks

how that being said ,, i have been reading that not to do 1 1/2 like the book says.... i was thinking about doing like 3/4 ??

thanks

so is 1 1/2 turns too much ??? past 0 lash

It wasn't for the designers.
The truth is anything from 1/8 turn to 1 1/2 is OK.
1 1/2 turns will take up for wear a lot longer.

when i was doing the valve today , i turned off the motor and getting reading to install valve cover and i heard the weirdest noise sounded like water sloshed from the radiator like it had air and it all settled ??? whats that ??? air trapped in there ?

thanks

Did you drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat "disc", to allow circulation of at least a little coolant at all times? That is one way to minimize/eliminate air trapped in the head.

ohh no i didnt , i know we had a Toyota truck once and it got air in the system ( leak in head gasket ) and it caused it to run hot ,,,,,, so would that have something to do with that also ?? so i guess i should do a 1/8 huhh
thanks

The last 180 thermostat I purchased came with a check valve build into the housing, so you didn't have to drill a hole.
...pic...

I believe it was a Mr Gasket


Here is my 160 that I did drill
...pic...

i dont know if the one that in installed had a hole or not ,, i'll have to see , would that cause it to run a little hot ??

Trapped air could

Have you check your fluid level?

Yeah i checked after it cooled it was about 1" down, were is always is, got me i may have to drill a hole in stat

Thanks

All good this morning no nosie on lifters and it was cold here
Maybe this time they are right

Thanks

Glad to hear you are getting things in order. The more you run it and get it broke in the better its going to run.

what should i set the lash at to get the 216 started for the first time