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#921251 02/20/2013 1:19 AM
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I have a 235 1955 block that i will use as a back up. This motor had a fiber cam and hydralic lifters. The fiber cam broke and took 2 chunks out of the crank. I have another block i can use a crank from. I had it magnafluxed and the pistons in it was already .040. The machine told me that they need to be bored out to .060. I ask if it would hold up to the heat here in Las Vegas. They stated that the 235 block had a lot of meat unlike the newer motors of today. They said it was an ok bore and will not have any cooling problems.

The second machine shop said that would not be good because the walls will be too thin and i will have cooling problems.

I am holding off on doing anything until i get some good input. Then it will be my next winter project if its a good thing to do. I do not want to sleeve the block.

So do i have a boat anchor or consider rebuild. I want to use it for a back up and possibly the primary motor if i decide to do another truck project.



"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen

56 Chevy 3100
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I have never seen a problem with .060".
It is common to go .080" without any problems, even with performance modification.


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"The fiber cam broke and took 2 chunks out of the crank."

Where did it take chunks out of the crank? Please explain.

Thanks


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The fiber gear broke (all the teeth were ground off) causing the camshaft not turn in sink with the crank and 2 of the cam lobes hit the counter weights on the crank. Thats the way i purchased it as a builder block knowing thete was a problem but not sure what was wrong. The owner said he heard a bang and then called a tow truck. As i tore the motor down and getting it ready to have the blocked checked to see if it was rebuildable thats what i found.


"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen

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C
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Got lots of miles on mine with an .080" overbore. Drill a small hole or wedge an aspirin in the thermostat when you fire it up as these heads like to trap air. Don't go back to shop #2.




Last edited by Curt B.; 02/20/2013 10:28 AM.

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I had my 235 overhauled by a local speed shop. they had to bore .60. I have run it about a year and have never had any problems.

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Great thanks guys i think i have my next year winter project lined out.


"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my sweet ride." -Amen

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There are examples of 235's bored by .125 and they ran OK according to the reports I've seen. It seems extreme to me and overheating would definately be a major consideration. I think it was to illustrate that there was sufficient iron there to do it w/o cutting into the water jacket.


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Originally Posted by 55hays
I had my 235 overhauled by a local speed shop. they had to bore .60. I have run it about a year and have never had any problems.


Think you ment .060", somewhat differant than .60"!

I've run the .060" over 235 in my '60 C10 hard & fast for many years with no issues.


BC
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The 235 in my 55.1 3/4-ton was bored .060 over. Once I fixed the oil pressure problem I had NO problem overheating. That motor ran good and strong. I think Egge still sells .100 over pistons for 235 and 216.

Past performance is no guarantee of future results. Your mileage may vary. smile

Last edited by Frank50; 02/21/2013 6:41 PM. Reason: grammer

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