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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 396
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What can I expect to happen when I run my new engine with old 30 lb gauge? Peg needle? Destroy that gauge? Blow out and make a mess under dash and cab? Should I be pulling gauges and install a 60 lb gauge prior to engine start? Thanks Jerry

Last edited by 1951Chevy1Ton; 02/19/2013 3:13 PM.


Jerry
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,074
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,074
Yes it will peg, I've run one like this for years. Or you can get a 60# GMC gruck ga. fits right in.


It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed
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D
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Your original 30 lb gauge will likely out last the new reproduction 60lb.

Joined: Apr 2007
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L
'Bolter
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I have had the stock 30# gauge in my '42 for 15 years and in my COE for 1 year, both have later high pressure 235s. I have had no problems with either. You do peg the gauge when driving but when warmed up you get a reading at idle. You don't know how high the pressure is, but the gauge functions as it should to warn you of TOO LOW pressure.

I doubt the gauges are very accurate anyway. I tested my COE engine with a quality oil pressure gauge hooked up at the block and it pegged at 42#, which I assume is where the pressure relief valve is set and after warming up would idle at 30#. After installing the gauge with it's very long oil line (in the COE it must go forward and up and then back through the firewall) I will get start up readings pegging the gauge, however, hot idle readings are 10# but I don't believe it. As long as it behaves as it usually does I am not going to worry.

Unless your wallet is too fat or you just want something to tinker with, I would leave it alone.

Kent


1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
1942 Chevy 1/2 ton
1947 Diamond T Model 509
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton
1950 Chevy COE Model 5700 ~ "Barney" ~ And more pix
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OK Guys, The idea that if its not broke , don't fix it sounds very good to me! Jerry



Jerry

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