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| | | Forums66 Topics128,119 Posts1,056,313 Members48,439 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 | I had believed that doors were interchangeble on the AD cabs.
I acquired, repaired, painted, and affixed a '53 cab to replace the '51 cab that was damaged in an MVA. The '53 came with a left door, as the '51 door was damaged in the MVA. I was hoping to use the undamaged '51 right door on the '53 cab.
Thus far I've noted several differences in the '51 and '53 doors. Things like: A '53 latch does not mount onto the '51 door due to the holes being different. The openings where the rectangular tang extends out from the latch for the remote control arm are of different shapes. The striker plates mount differently, and the outside door handles and openings are different.
Is there a way to modify a '51 door to recieve a '53 latch and handle or modify the '53 cab to use a '51 stiker plate? I've considered using the '51 latch, handle, and striker plate on the right door and using the '53 setup on the left.
Your assistance will be appreciated. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | The 1951 door has unique characteristics. It has the later vent window and the earlier turn-down handle. You will not be easily able to get it to match either the earlier door or the later door. However, you can get it to work on any A-D cab, but using the 1951 and earlier door latch/striker(catch) parts.
I think this is what you ended-up with in your post.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 | However, you can get it to work on any A-D cab, but using the 1951 and earlier door latch/striker(catch) parts. Thanks for the reply, Tim. I'm gonna go ahead and try the '51 setup on the right door. My main concern there is the fact that the area where the striker plate mounts is different on the '53 from the '51. The indentation on the post of the '53 cab is shorter in length than on the '51. I've not attempted to deal with this situation empirically; only through measuring and whatnot. I'll keep you apprised of the status. Thanks again. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 | I initially did a Search on this subject and found very little usable material. Then, I put in the words "door strikers" and found a wealth of information. I even found one thread about someone who wanted to do exactly the same thing that I'm doing: put '51 door(s) on a '53 cab. Woody had a great thread and pics showing a '52 to 54 striker on a '47 to 51 cab. Woody used a shim to make the modification. http://www.pbase.com/czechman/image/100876314However, the holes in the sriker don't line up with the holes in the post. The holes in the striker are inset, as you can see from Woody's pic, and don't appear to be modified. The threaded holes in the bars where the screws attach are held in place by a bracket, and are not easily moved. I'm wondering what others did in order to rectify this situation? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | Here is another pic to add to Brads point ...pic... You can see the pockets that the threaded serrated bar slides in. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 | Thanks for the input, Brad and Gus.
Although I'm at work right now and can't check it out, I believe the setup on the '53 cab is different than Gus' pic. Gus' pic shows the sheet metal enclosure as having slots for adjusting up and down. Whereas my cab's sheet metal enclosure adjusts side to side, and will not allow up or down adjustment, of which I need in order to make the '51 striker attach.
Do you think it would be a prudent move to pop out the bars from the sheet metal enclosure and elongate the holes in the post, thereby allowing an up and down adjustment?
Thanks again, guys.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 | Okay, then unseen modification it is!
I'm focused on the front clip right now, but I'll let you know of my progress.
Thanks, Brad! | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 | Okay- The front clip is on, so I began working on the doors. The '53 left door, latch, and striker plate were attempted first, since no modification needed to be done. I figured the left door setup would be a learning experience and went on without incident. The right side '51 striker plate and pillar required modification for the '53 cab. I popped out the two two-holed nuts. Since the striker bolts travelled through slots, adjustments could be made only horizontally. I made the slots into squares with a round file in order to be able to allow for vertical adjustment. I made two shims much in the same fashion as Woodys'. The striker plate was attached, adjusted, and the door latches and unlatches. There is some play in the door and I believe it's from the striker plate not being able to be adjusted inward due to the outer-edge facings. The '53 striker plte does not have outer-edge facings. Woody noted below his pic, "The next thing to do is to get the door in about another 1/8 inch. I'm out of adjustment on the striker so some minor sugery is likely." http://www.pbase.com/czechman/image/100876314I haven't perused Woody's pics yet to see how and if he remedied his situation. However, I believe that if I cut off the outer edge, a stop will be taken away, allowing an inward adjustment of the striker. This should take out any excessive play. Any input is welcome. I'll keep you posted on my progress. Thanks. EDit: Woody layer noted, "I also opened up the the bolt holes in the srtiker post and was able to move the striker in the necessary amount and now the trailing edge of the door is flush with the cab."
Last edited by Davey Do; 03/24/2013 2:28 AM.
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