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#914889 01/26/2013 6:29 PM
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Wrench Fetcher
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How long does it take if i prime the new engine with the drill and screwdriver to get oil to the rocker bar?

I have a later 58-62 235 that was not together with the rebuilt 3836848 head that i have? I have read about the bolt with the hole in it. I dont have that but need some help to make sure when i fire up i get oil to the top.
p.s. i verified that i'm getting oil to the crank.

thanks, mike


51 3100, 235 purs with T5 swap
54 Belair 305 & 700r4 few more months to go
I'm on a 1950 3100 that needs very little. A true barn find $1000
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'Bolter
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It can take a minute or two, longer in freezing weather.


See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet!
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'Bolter
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Mike, not all had the mystery bolt with a hole in it. Did you assemble the motor? Under the side cover (behind the dist. where the valve lifters are) look to see if there is a copper line from the rear cam bearing to the center of the block,this feeds oil to the rocker shaft. It may be plugged with dirt, it may not be there at all.If you look at a diagram in a shop man.it will show the path of the oil through the motor. You will see where it feeds the rocker arm shaft. Like DAve said it should only take a minute or two, if not you need to look for a blockage.


Tommy
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'Bolter
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If it is truly a 1958-62 block it will not have a tube under the side cover. 1958 was the first year the oil supply is from a cast in galley up the center from the lifter galley.
1958 had a 1/16" orifice in the block that can get clogged, 1959-62 has a 11/32" orifice which would be hard to clog.


See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet!
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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks guys. there was no copper tube on the lifter side and the block cast date is nov '61. the 11/32 hole that may or may not be clogged, is that the hole that the lift tube to the rocker shaft goes into? what the best way to clean it? i am completey assembeled but the oil pan is off.

thanks, i will be checking the diagram in a shop manual
Mike


51 3100, 235 purs with T5 swap
54 Belair 305 & 700r4 few more months to go
I'm on a 1950 3100 that needs very little. A true barn find $1000
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,337
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'Bolter
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Under the side cover there is an 1/8" pipe plug in the center of the engine. The 11/32 orifice is behind that, but I really doubt that is the problem. Here is a link to a pic of you setup
Is this a rebuilt engine?
Were lifters with a reduced area half way up used?


See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet!
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the engine was rebuilt about 15 years ago. (block, crank, cam, pistons, rods, bearings, only)(.060) its been in a plastic bag. I took it completly apart cleaned and put back together. a 216 and 2 older 235s have been donating parts. the lifters were from the 216 1" solid and there is no tappered area. just a hole though it near the bottom. all the lifters were the same these was the best set.

thanks mike
ps. i'm gonna warm up the shop and run the drill for about 5 min this time and see what happens.


51 3100, 235 purs with T5 swap
54 Belair 305 & 700r4 few more months to go
I'm on a 1950 3100 that needs very little. A true barn find $1000
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,636
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'Bolter
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I don't think you can safely use lifters from a 216 in that later block. For the later block the lifters have an area of material removed to allow oil to properly flow through to the opening for the supply hole in the head to the rockers.

Using the 216 lifters would severely restrict this oil flow. So you won't likely get any oil flow.

Also, the head bolt you need should have a hole in it to provide oil to the rocker shaft.

If you don't have the right head bolt in the right spot, you won't get oil to the rockers.

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'Bolter
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Perhaps the head bolt has material removed too so oil can flow past it. At any rate, you need the correct head bolt, and correct lifters for that engine to get oil to the rockers.

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Thanks everyone, i'm now in the market for lifters. where would you recommend i start looking

mike


51 3100, 235 purs with T5 swap
54 Belair 305 & 700r4 few more months to go
I'm on a 1950 3100 that needs very little. A true barn find $1000
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 36
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Wrench Fetcher
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is it possible to find the lifters your refering to without buying hydralic?

i dont want hydralic then i would have to get a cam shaft that is for hydr lifters also correct?

Last edited by mike and sons; 01/27/2013 12:01 PM.

51 3100, 235 purs with T5 swap
54 Belair 305 & 700r4 few more months to go
I'm on a 1950 3100 that needs very little. A true barn find $1000
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 36
M
Wrench Fetcher
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after a few minutes of searching around everything is hydralic or the solid lifter like i have. nothing that is solid with some material removed?

without sounding cheap can i grind some material off in the same area as shown in pre 68 dave's diagram?

thanks, mike


51 3100, 235 purs with T5 swap
54 Belair 305 & 700r4 few more months to go
I'm on a 1950 3100 that needs very little. A true barn find $1000
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,636
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,636

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'Bolter
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looks like a good price too.

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'Bolter
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You should not need a drilled head bolt with any 235 unless the block has a blockage in the original oil path. See my Blog for a complete description of this. My Blog


See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet!
My Blog
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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks fellas, you are the masters. I have a set of lifters on order and i will get new push rod from the local store. the push rods need to be longer. (11.474") with the other lifters, the rods were (10.6??) i even have the set from the 216 that were 10.4??" oh well, got plenty of other parts off them so far


mike


51 3100, 235 purs with T5 swap
54 Belair 305 & 700r4 few more months to go
I'm on a 1950 3100 that needs very little. A true barn find $1000

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