The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop New Tech Tip - Timing cover mod for easy removal

Thanks to Sweet for sending this one in.

As it starts:

Didja know, on most Stovebolt Sixes, the oil pan must be removed to get the timing cover off? And if you DID know that, didja come by that knowledge the hard way?? They says true wisdom is learning from others' experience. If you ever want to get at your timing chain without all the drama of dropping the oil pan first, all you have to do is make an easy...

Read the rest.

Peg

Definitely a good tip that many of us have used. The only thing I would suggest is to use allen head bolts as opposed to hex head because there can be a wrench/socket clearance issue with the cover in installing and removing the hex head bolts. Using a handled allen wrench alleviates that issue.

NOW you post this!!!!

My word, but that's a nice-looking engine!

And, I might add, this tech tip work only cost me three beers (I think SWEET would have done it for two, but I'd have paid a case).

Looks great.

Jim

Well then, looks like I need to stop by for a few cold ones!!

WHOA, just read the Tech tip and it says to use a 3/8 drill bit to drill and tap for a 3/8-16 bolt.Should this not read drill the holes to 5/16 inch and tap to 3/8-16? Jerry

OK, Here is what I found on the 235 block that I am getting ready to replace my 1951 chevy 216 engine and trying to follow the original posted tech tip. Will this mental torture ever end? The 2 lower bolts removed from Inside the pan threaded into the timing gear cover were 5/16-24 grade 5 bolts. When I fit a 5/16 drill bit shaft into those 2 block holes, it is sloppy loose.That is the bore size I would use to thread the 2 holes to 3/8-16 as per tech tip. Going up in size in drill bit diameter, I find that a 21/64 inch drill bit just fits the existing hole. looking at my US Tap and Drill Bit Size Table, that is the exact size needed for a 3/8-24 inch bolt. Please, I already drilled out the Timing gear cover to 3/8 inch. Is my block a misfit? Thanks to all for guidance! Jerry

Only the cover needs to be drilled. The holes in the cap can be tapped as is, as 51 said above.

Please read the tech tip carefully. It does NOT say to drill the bearing cap . Just the covers.

I used to drill and make them removable from the front in the early 70's i also modified the front of the block to get the extra oil in the cover to drain back to the pan faster. This was easier than adding a fitting and drain line to get it back to the pan.I learned the oil drain trick from some of the old timers that raced these old engines on circle track and speed trap runs.

If you modify the block to drain the oil from your timing cover, the gears explosions will end and RPM will increase dramatically. My old 6 was built in the 70's at and has a lot of miles on it and has seen RPM's way over the normal range.

I did this on my 59 GMC 270 with good results.
With pan off, tapped with 3/8-24 unf, no drilling.
Did this with everything bolted to the crankshaft as is.. afterwards i cleaned with brake/carb cleaner and sucked up the chips with a vacuum cleaner..

Just put a dash on gasket material on the new bolts so they wont leak, workes for gmc 270, i do not know if the hole sizes are different on Chevy's.

Are there any exceptions?
When did they change this, or did they? Is my 66 like this too?
I'm no engine guy but have a 53 GMC (Canadian) that has a leak up front. The engine is a Chevy.
Can someone explain how to alter it to drain better, as it was mentioned in this thread? I would want to do that too, if I go in there.

I did this mod... ended up drilling and going to a larger size bolt. After I tapped the main cap there was like 10-20% of the thread formed... was not happy with it since You need to have a decent torque to seal the cover.

Driller/tapped larger size no problems.