The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay horn wiring

Trying to figure out horn wiring, read alot of posts with good info. But here goes; should I have continuity between the mast bearing and where the wire comes out of the steering column? Trying to determine which components need replacing. 1953 3100 with 1956 car 235, has horn relay on firewall. Thanks, Paul

You should have continuity between the Mast bearing, to the Wire that comes out at the bottom of the mast.

And on thru to the horn relay also. When the Horn button is
pushed it shorts the contact ring on the mast jacket bearing to
ground completing the circuit to the relay. The relay operates
completing a circuit to the horn.

Denny G

Thanks Denny and Dads 50. Should the horn contact ring have continuity through it only when depressed? Are those little insulating washers (some missing/deteriorated) behind the rivets holding it together? Is there supposed to be some other insulation material in there? Is that repairable? Maybe time to buy all new. Thanks, Paul

Here is a pic of a replacement mast bearing
..link...

You should have continuity from the metal ring on top to the end of the wire.
If you dont then the wire is broken in the mast.

Here is a replacement retainer if yours is bad

...link...

Be sure that the top of that mast bearing is clean. Mine was tarnished and didn't work, a light steel wool brushing got it going again.

Gus has ya on the right track Paul. Sounds like your horn button
retainer that he's linked you to is shot. The two sides of that
are indeed insulated from each other and should only make
contact when you put pressure on the upper one and they touch.

Denny G

Ordered mast bearing, contact plate and spring/insulator assembly. Want to mount trumpet style horn(not correct, but I have one) onto 1956 235 manifold without mounting tabs. Any ideas? thanks again all.

So, new mast bearing, new contact plate, provided 12v to horn relay and relay closes when button depressed. Hot wired horn and horn works. Hook up horn to relay and nothing. Does horn (trumpet style) need to be bolted down to complete circuit? Have 1956 235 w/o bracket on manifold. Thanks

I'd say yes Paul - if you're using a relay, then the column horn button gives a ground to the relay, letting it pass the power to the horn [+], then the horn would need a ground for the power to flow

Bill

Since we are on the science of horns... mine is grounded somewhere and blows by itself when the relay is connected. Ring and spring contact is removed, still blows. I have taken apart the relay to see if it is stuck and it appears to operate properly in testing.

Is there a spot that is a common grounding problem I can look for?
'59 TF

Dave - check the wire from the steering mast bearing down the column to under the dash, might have some bad insulation that's shorted - I think you'll find a connector that can be unplugged just under the edge of the dash - use an ohmeter to check from there to the relay as well

Bill

Thanks Bill. Good advice, I didn't know where to start. Chasing electrical ghosts can be no fun.
Dave