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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,036 Posts1,055,448 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 15 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2012 Posts: 15 | I was told pre-sale this truck ('48 2-tn.) had a blown head gasket and needs a radiator, no problem I've done that before. FF, after finding a 195? rad. and tearing down top end, I discover the block is cracked across bottom of cylinders from #2 to #5. Question #1 is this common place for 235's? Question #2 is this repairable? It ran good on & off trailer. If not... Question #3 Is there a difference between a car & truck engine?
Meanwhile, this truck has a newer bed on it and I've been rewiring piece by piece with plastic coated wire, I already mentioned the radiator, I need a gas tank, that I've been struggling to find, so it's probably coming from the junk yard and she has a new coat. That said, I guess at this point, I'm not staying true and correct...
Question #4 In the title, engine recommendations. I've been reading how a lot of the engines have been swapped out for latter non babbitt bearings. I have to find out more on this, the engine length and water pump issues and whatever other considerations there are, motor mounts, bellhousing, ratios, etc. Ideally, I'd like to be able to just drop something in, if I can find something suitable. I'm not opposed to a newer V-8, but I am not looking to change the whole drive train.
I guess that is enough info for now, sorry for the novel. Any input appreciated and all leads welcomed.
Thanks for reading, D. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy Diamond_D, the crack is repairable, the two tried and true methods are welding, and stitching. There is also now thanks to chemistry, closing the crack with "liquid steel" it comes in many brands, but it is basically a steel reinforced epoxy putty. As to engine choices a newer 235 or 261 are the easiest replacement choices, a special short water pump or a water pump adapter plate which allows the use of the older style water pump are two ways to deal with the water pump issue. Either of these two engines will allow you to retain the rest of the stock drivetrain, hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 | what part of pa. are you located in? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 | I'm with 3B. Some of the vendors listed in "our" "Links" page,(under engine and drive-line),carry the special short water-pump assembly,so you don't have to hack into your radiator support. | | |
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