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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,024 Posts1,055,395 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 133 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 133 | I just re-installed my drive shaft and differential and the u-joint connection if off center about 1". I can pull it over adn make the attachment but that seems to put a lot of presure on the joint. Is this normal. What should I do if anything?
If you never tell a lie, you never need to remember what you said.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,215 Moderator | | Moderator Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,215 | Yes, the year and model matters. Mine is a half ton with torque tube setup. I loosen off the shackle bolts, measure things carefully from side to side and everything came together. Sideways pressure on the joint can't be good. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 133 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 133 | Somehow my last reply came across as unregistered. The truck is a 1952 1/2 ton as stated, original rear end. I had all of this apart to rebuild and instll 3:55 ring and pinion. I also had the springs off to clean and new bushings. They may have gone back on different sides then they came off. I measured from the front spring shackle back to the pin on both springs. It measures slightly off each other. I might try switching springs from one side to the other and see what happens. A slight diference on the back would make a big difference up front. I did try just loosening the shackle bolts and moving the tube to center. That helped some but not enough. Any ideas would be appreciated.
If you never tell a lie, you never need to remember what you said.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | There is a section in the manual regarding rebuilding the rear end. It shows at one point measuring the two diagonals from the housing ends to the front of the driveshaft. I always thought it was something not to worry about but maybe it would tell you something. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,417 ODSS Lawman | | ODSS Lawman Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,417 | Have you confirmed your banjo housing isn't upside down?
SWEET Sergeant At Arms: Old Dominion Stovebolt Society BUNS?!?!?!Where we're going, we don't need no buns.....1950 GMC 450 1951 Chevy 1/2-TonThe GreenMachineIn the Stovebolt Gallery | | | | | Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 133 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2011 Posts: 133 | I don't quite understand the upsidedown question. Far as I can see there is only one way that assembly can go back together. What I ended up doing was I oversized the holes in my rear end that fit the pin in the spring. It did not take much to get the front of the tube to move over 3/4' of an inch. I figured with the shackles holding everything in place that a less then perfect fit would not be a problem. It only changed the angle of my rear end by about 1/8". I think the problem is the frame may have been slightly bent which caused all of this. It is all together now and staying that way.
If you never tell a lie, you never need to remember what you said.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 5 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 5 | I just finished dealing with the same problem on my '51 3100 and 4-speed. Ended up grinding just a little off the mounting pins, just enough to bring the torque tube into alignment. I had chewed up two universals previously. Hopefully, will be ok now. | | |
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