The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Can't get a spark

Hi Folks--I'm new to the forum here and new to a 53 chev 3/4 ton PU. I finally got out to have a look at it the other day and need some guidance. For background--the truck hasn't run for 6-10 years.

On sat I took a battery out of my other truck, hooked it up and was going to check that it turned over--then that we got a spark--then fuel... So it turns over which is a good sign, but I couldn't get a spark. I thought it might be the coil so I replaced--still not getting a spark.

The line into and out of the coil are hot. Any suggestions?

Also curious if anyone can recommend a decent shop manual source for this type of truck as this is my first attempt at auto mechanics and I am relatively clueless...

Thanks in advance.

Points, condenser, rotor, cap, plugs, wires... any or all of these could need replacing.

Chevy Duty sells reprints of the shop manual.

edit: You said that you pulled the battery out of the other truck, am I to assume the '53 has been converted to 12v? If so, do you have a voltage reducer between the ignition and coil?

This website will get you started for info on manuals and the FREE Chevrolet restoration package:
http://www.50chevy.freeservers.com/Catalogs_and_Manuals.htm

As for getting spark, check all grounds -- including grounding straps, worn-out wires, and rusted connectors.

OK. Thanks for the quick reply. Yes--it was converted to 12V at some point.

Any reccomendation for which I should start with? I assume I can get new points at a regular auto parts store. I'll get the shop manual online today and start my education.

thanks again.

This thread might save you a little time and $ as far as narrowing down the problem.

if your coil is showing 12 v on both term your points are rusted open, if it were me points,cond,rotor,cap,wires,@plugs would be the way to go

And don't run it with the fuel in the tank. Bring a small can and hose to run it from.

OK. Thanks for the advice--I'll get out there later in the week. I'll start witht the points.

When you do look at the points, make sure they are closed on the flat side of the distributor cam(under the rotor) andthat they will open to about the thickness of a matchbook cover when the distributor cam pushes the points open.(if you need to, use a matchbook cover or an actual feeler guage. 16 to 18 thousandths)

It was the points--they were corroded and not adjusted properly--I cleaned them up and was able to get a spark. We'll see if I can get fuel this weekend. Thanks for your responses.

Cool news
Keep us informed on how the patient is doing

I had this problem with a girlfriend and found that changing girlfriends fixed it. Don't know if that will work in your situation.

I bet you got plenty of spark off the previous one

it must have been the flux capacitor draining the finnegan pin