The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Brake lights intermittin?

Goofing around with my brake lights a bit over the weekend ,determined it's not the brake lights or switch etc. etc. at all. I believe it's in the turning light cansler, because when I turn right it doesn't quite cancle back and the brake light won't work, turning back left it will cancel and the brake light goes off.Now this of course is happening after the truck straightens out going down the road. I have looked at the turn light cancle piece and she looks a little tricky to me to mess with.Where can I bye one for the 55' 12 volt system or just rework the one thats in it?

Here is one option, they sell the whole assembly as well.

http://www.classicparts.com/1954-56-Turnsignal-Switch/productinfo/53%2D505A/#.UNtvy5G9KSM

My old one did this. It did not mechanically center itself after turning. Not being centered would cause one or the other brake lights to not work. Initially I installed some indicator lights under the dash wired to the brake lights so I could tell when the switch was centered correctly, that way I knew the brake lights should be working.
Later I replaced some of the old mechanical switch parts, cleaned and lubed the rest and everythings good now.

Checked out the switch you reffered me to, I noticed it is mounted on the outside of the steering wheel.Ok thats fine, now to me it looks like after you make your turn with the blinker on in order to cancel it, you manually do it yourself correct? Thanks there Brad Allen..

ol55 - the switch Brad linked is the one that mounts inside the cup of the 55-59 signal assembly - under the wishbone spring on the right - if that's the unit [factory] you have, not canceling fully could be to do with the springs in the cup or excess wear at a number of points, as well as a worn out switch

Bill

You are correct there red58 as I checked out the link closer to determine the piece Brad Allen mentioned does indeede go inside the cup.The signal assembly piece I have in there is new, so basiclly the problem must be in the springs or excessive wear like you said? Like I was saying earlier it looked a little tricky for me. By the way has anybody ever run an external one that is clamped to the steering wheel course it wouldn't give the stock appearance, or does anyone sell that unit that you sent pictures of? Thank you..

It's been a while since I had it apart, but if I remember right, there are two "springs" in the cup. A wisbone-looking one that actuates the cams that lock it one way or the other, and a flat one at the bottom that provides tension to the whole thing. I had a similar cancellation issue on mine, and I got it working great by just cleaning the whole thing and regreasing, bending the arms on the wishbone a little to help it, and replacing the flat one with a little piece of spring steel I happened to have from some other long ago project. The only part I replaced was the wedge to hold the cup firmly, but that was cheap. Works like new now.

any of the vendors, including the one linked above, sell the complete factory turn signal unit

Bill