The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 235 alternator conversion and brackets needed????

I have done a search on this and have found that a 2 wire alternator seems to be what I need, but what is a DA plug??? I would like to just buy everything needed from one person or company. can someone post a link or email address to help me out with this

I used a one wire, run the wire to the lead at the voltage regulator that the pos lead from the battery goes to. Had to get a 2.5" longer curved bracket for the top to replace the one that is there for the generator. The bottom bracket worked for me AFTER inverting it. In other words, take the two bolts off that hold it to the block, and flip the bracket 180 degrees. You'll need a piece of all thread to span the bottom bracket, and a "keeper" nut to sinch up the bottom flange of the alt. Bolt on alternator, and the belt lined up perfectly. I seem to remember that I even used the same belt. At least thats the way I did it on my '61 1/2 ton. E mail me if you need [email protected] I have some pics posted on page two at this address... http://photo.starblvd.net/yachtcare

I converted my 235 to a one wire alternator. Patrick's supplied the alternator brackets and they bolted on fine. Patrick's has a link on this site.

http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/

thanks, it seems that when I searched, everyone said how to do it but I didnt find any links, at least this one will help the next guy in my situation

DA is the two wire plug that goes on other than one wire alternators. One wire from the DA plug went to + supply to exite (Could just loop to the output terminal)and the other the indicator lite. DA Type Will charge at idle, the one wire takes a few RPM's and both uses voltmeter rather than ampmeter gauge. Zeke

I used a bracket off a 230/250 motor, had to elongate the holes a bit.

Zeker, I have the 2 wire DA set up on my alternater and my original ampmeter works fine.

I know I'm digging an old one up but I have a question concerning this topic. I believe the alternator on my truck is a 2 wire DA, I don't have any positive wires going to it to excite it into charging at 14 volts. If I loop off the output, how do I know which terminal to loop to. The alternator is a delco. When looking down on it the pulley is in the front and the output along with two terminals are at the rear. Output is on the right and the DA plug is to the left (there are two terminals in the DA plug and neither are output mentioned above). So which of the terminals in the DA plug needs excited?

Upon closer inspeection of the DA plug, I can see that the terminal nearest the output is marked with an "R" and the other terminal is marked "F". I think I need to jump terminal "F" to my output. Before I fry something anybody say otherwise?

Whoa up there, neighbor! It sounds like you've got an external-regulated alternator, not the later-type one with the onboard regulator. If the 2-pin plug is on the back of the alternator, and fits a hole about 1/2" square, you would need the square-box regulator with a warning light relay and a vibrating-contact voltage regulator. The 10-series internal-regulator type has a rectangular plug hole about 1/4" by 1", and the two connector positions are marked "1" and "2", not "R" and "F". That plug hole is on the side of the alternator, not the back. If you jumper the Battery terminal to the "F" terminal on the earlier design, the voltage will increase without limit as the alternator speeds up, going close to 100 volts as the engine comes up to speed. It will also discharge the battery if it's left connected with the engine off. I think you're going to need a different alternator.

Does it look like this?:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/images/product_images/images/new_advantage/7122.jpg

Or this?:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41n5-LOktfL._SL500_.jpg

The first one needs an external regulator, the botom one has the regulator built in.

Jerry

I disagree with you are going to need a different alternator if you have an externally regulated one. There is nothing wrong with them.

Either one will keep the battery charged. It's just a PITA to do all the wiring necessary for the external regulator, particularly if the original ammeter is kept in the circuit. Without an idiot light, one of the circuits backs voltage up past the ignition switch, and keeps the engine running when the switch is turned off. A diode or a resistor in one of the regulator wires is needed to make the ignition system work right. There is a solid-state regulator about 2" square that plugs right into the socket at the back of that alternator that converts it to a single-wire unit. I used to convert farm tractors to a 12 volt ignition/alternator setup using that system.
Jerry

Its never had an external regulator on it before, nor a dummy light?

Here are the numbers off it:
1102439 55A
IH4 12VNEG

I searched and came up with a 10SI sometimes having the R and F designations on them, also it said by jumping terminal F to the output it would turn the charging mode on.

I'll link to some pictures if I can from my phone...

Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3

Here is a link to an article claiming the R and F are found on the 10SI
Link 1

The reason I bring this up is it only runs about 10 volts with my all the lights on, if I can turn up the aternator it might help a little bit.

OK, that's definitely a 10 SI alternator with the internal regulator. You should be able to connect the battery lead to the #2 terminal with a short jumper wire and a blade connector, and just leave the other terminal open. If it doesn't begin charging right away, goose the throttle once and it should jump the voltage up to 13+ volts, minimum, and once the battery tops out on charge, the voltage should stabilize around 14.5 volts or a bit higher.
Jerry

I did the above, with no noticeable change in output. What would be the best way to confirm voltage output? I don't trust the ampmeter which is not factory. As I recall it is just tied to some ignition switched wire off the battery.

I have a voltmeter, but lost the book to it so I don't know how to use it.

Just select the "DC volts" setting on the dial, assuming you've got a multimeter, and connect one test lead (red) to the large output terminal of the alternator, and the other test lead (black) to the alternator housing, the engine block, or any other ground. You can also connect the voltmeter across the battery posts. With the engine off, the meter should show battery voltage, somewhere near 12 volts. If the alternator is charging, the running voltage should be somewhere between 13 and 14.5 volts, depending on the state of charge of the battery. If it's not charging with the jumper installed, you've probably got a bad regulator or worn-out brushes in the alternator.
Jerry

Would the solution be repair or replace? I'll verify with the multimeter but I don't think its running above 12 volts.

For the cost of parts and the hassle of a teardown and rebuild, I'd just swap for a rebuilt alternator. I used to repair all the alternators that needed it in my shop, but labor costs and warranty concerns finally made me switch to reman units. Inside that alternator, there's a set of brushes, a brush holder, brush springs, a diode trio assembly, a regulator, a RF noise filter capacitor, and a 6-diode rectifier. Any or all of these components can cause a no-charge situation, plus the two major components, the stator and rotor. Then, there are front and rear bearings to consider. A remanufacturer checks all these things, repairs or replaces what's necessary, bench tests the alternator, and sells it to you, nice and clean, for under 50 bucks exchange in most cases. Hard to beat that deal!
Jerry

Looks like I'll be fabbing a new lower bracket. The old alternator had the pivot mount butchered to fit some junk lower bracket. I'll use the opportunity to build a new bracket that won't require grinding the mounting pivot on the new alternator.