The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Cab Roof Dent

Guys,
My '59 cab roof has a small dent right on the rear passenger corner and I don't want to final paint over a ding. I'm sanding the inside of the cab so there's no finish to mess up... I'm thinking of jig-sawing a ceiling section to get to the dent, then when I'm done banging out the dent, weld and finish the ceiling piece back in. I'm thinking when I paint the interior, it wont be noticeable.
I'm not a body man... this is just me thinking.. and I can get in trouble for that sometimes.
What are your thoughts on this?
Jerry

A stud gun and puller would be a better idea.

Jerry,
You didn't believe me when I said we were cousins, did you? LOL!
Well I'll be dog-gone, I have a dent IN MY ROOF TOO!

My Roof Dent

Like 64fleetside said

That's what I plan to use to pull out my dent when the time comes. Another option mentioned to me is to tack weld a washer to the center of the dent (on edge of course) and use a dent puller. The stud gun would be handier and faster though.

you could fix it like the PDR guys do, if its small enough: drill a hole on the inside, use a spoon to work out the dent, then put a rubber/plastic body plug in the hole... i don't think anyone would notice a plug high and behind them. i suppose you could paint it to match your interior too.

i guess it depends on how fussy you are.

Thanks for the input guys. I think I"m set on my plan now that I've pondered more about it.

Hey Jay! Cuz! If you get to yours before I do mine, please keep me posted on the process and progress will ya?

Tom, My plan is to cut the section just big enough for access to the dent. Rather than completely remove the section though, I want to leave a tiny bit on the lower edge of the section to bend/hinge it out of the way but allow me to accurately bend it back when I'm finished removing the dent. I plan on welding the section back then using filler to cover any seam blemish, then prime and paint.
I guess my confidence of working a patch panel on my door allows me to think I can pull this off...
Wish me luck! I'll keep you guys posted too.
Jerry

Don't cut anything! That is not necessary. If you have a welder (and what serious restorer, body man doesn't?), but not a stud gun (I don't) then simply weld a washer in the middle of the dent and use a slide hammer to pull on the washer and pop the dent out. Then, finish with plastic filler.

I like Davids path but would use 4 or 5 washers spaced around the deepest part of the dent and pull out as I worked around the perimeter.

Your cut and weld approach would work too but I think it would take longer and be way more frustrating trying to weld overhead.

I apologize I don't have a picture to post.
The cab is gutted and on a dolly in my garage. Getting around on the inside isn't a problem for me.
The dent is in the radius just above the drip rail and runs about 5" long, horizontal and partially around to the passenger side.
The 2x radius is a strong geometric shape and I don't think the dent will just pop out. I might could do the washer or stud method but I think I'd feel better bumping the metal with a dolly once I get the metal pushed back out.
I'll study on it some more. As always, your opinions and method ideas are welcomed and appreciated.
One thing is for sure, I WILL get it out! Taint nuttin' but a thang! Right?
Jerry

Just a question about technique when pulling a dent out using the washer method. I've heard you should start reversing the shape by starting at the perimeter and then work inward, finishing with the center last. In essence, you are doing everything in reverse order of the way the dent happened.
Does that make sense? Or do I have it backwards?

You have it right. Yes, use as many washers or one washer welded in different spots until the original shape is as close as possible if not a little proud of original. you can always bang in high spots. This method wont give you a perfect original shape and plastic filler will be needed.

funny, jerry beat me to the exact same question that i had! only difference is i have about 15 little dents and a big one that looks like a steel i beam went through the back window and beat up the back side of the cab

And if you don't have one I suggest getting a contour finder... I finally realized I would be sanding on this bumper for another year if I couldn't find a way to stop flat spotting the dent I've been working on. Todays task is making a wood block the proper shape to "get er done".

CASO,
I made some contour shaped wooden drivers for the inside of my dented headlight eyebrows on that '59 and they worked like a charm. The soft wood wasn't too aggressive on the steel and it was easy to work the metal back to it's original shape.
I plan on forming the end of a 1x4 for my roof dent.
Yeah buddy... git'r dun!
Jerry

Yeah these days I'm spending twice the time researching and making 'tools' I realize I need to do the job right than I do on the actual 'job', but I also find I'm just as happy with a new tool "I Made" as I am when I do actually git'r dun. (or is that just a case of my self deluding belief justifying my innate ability to procrastinate?)

This is likely much smaller than the dent you are working with, but shows how well a dent puller can work at removing dents. Scroll down a bit on this link to find it. The dent started at about 4" across, then it wasn't.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1271532&postcount=27

you can weld a 6 common nail to the dent. then place a 1x4 next to the nail then use a claw hammer to pull on the nail will take several nails but works good then cut the nails off ang grind it smooth. you can reuse the nails several times