The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Help needed with 1942 cab door ferruls install

Hi Does anyone know how to use the ferrule tool to install the door ferrules correctly? Do you use the lever on the tool to crimp it ? It all came with no instructions. I don't want to wreck the new ferrules.

I also got the anti droop springs for the door handles and thought it would be obvious where they went but need help with that also. I took out the latch and have it on the bench.
Thanks

See the attached photo. The spring is at the top. There is a left and right spring. They just snap in.
http://s1117.beta.photobucket.com/u...p;_suid=13558073370930015472584886865648
Harold

My belief is the original door ferrules were mounted at the factory in the same way hollow rivets are mounted. The commonly available tool around today works by curling parts of the ferrule against the inside of the door to hold the ferrule in place. It's adjustable for depth. It works much the same way an old "church key" can opener would curl the section of can lid into the can. IMHO it doesn't work very well because the ferrule isn't mounted as firmly as factory. If you have or can make something to spread the whole interior part of the ferrule like they did at the factory you'll have a much better result.

Thanks guys! I am going out to work and will get on this when I get back ! Excellent photo Harold!

Tiny is dead on the money. I have the tool but it gave me a fit trying to use it. I have it on loan now and hope it'll do the job but its stilla nickel short of a dollar.

That being said, a fellow bolter advised me to try use a rubber "O" ring to help get it tight and to keep the ferrule from rubbing the paint off behind the door handle. I used a rubber O ring both on the outside and one on the inside and still have a problem getting it tight enough with the "todays tool".

I feel sure someone could make a tapered type rod to push,pull or in some way flare/tighten the ferrule like it came from the factory. I wish I had machinery and know how to at least try! It would make the job so much easier, tighter and clean looking.

Anyone out there to take the challenge

The ferrules that I bought came with a rubber ring and it looks like it seals the outer door panel. Putting an O ring on the inside is worth a try. I guess that you just need to progress around the edge of the ferrule with the tool and try to crimp it all around to keep it from moving. When I get back on my truck I will see if I can make it work . Thanks.

.... I forgot to mention I "practiced" with three NEW ones. Tried several things but didn't get it near as tight as I wanted. I must have not tilted my head just right.....ANYONE with some experience or a "sure" way please chip in here. I still have one I'd like to replace and make better.....well, make that TWO!!!

Same experience as the previous posters here. I added the rubber O ring to the inside - got the new ferrule tighter, but certainly not " cinched down ". Looks OK, but would prefer it a little tighter.

Well I did one. I was able to pull my not so well done new one back out. The new one came with a rubber bushing on it. SO I used a dremmel tool to cut little slots in the inside part of the ferrule and after pushing it back in was able to use the tool to bend each tab down. The ring now does not move or spin in the door hole. Oh and the helper springs did lift the door handle back towards stock but 70 years of wear can't be totally erased and it still sags a little. Overall I am happy with the way the door handle and ferrule look. During this little operation I soaked the door mechanism to clean it and oiled it up and also the window mechanism so all in all the passenger door is working great and done for now.