The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Fuse block recommendations?

I'm getting ready to begin my wiring installation and the prior owner had no fuse block installed. I have converted to 12 volts but I'm not running any high amp stuff ... basically stock electrical equipment. Can anyone recommend a source for a fuse block that I can mount on the firewall ala original or inside if necessary? I would like to use something that will support 6-8 circuits in case I ever want to add something. Thanks in advance.

shoeless

I use fuse blocks from '70's/'80's vintage GM products. These use spade type fuses, tend to have 8-10 circuits, the flasher unit, and slide-in connectors that are good for add-in circuits. I usually mount them on the top section of the left side kick panel. These fuse blocks work great if you are willing to re-wire from scratch (as I do).

I used the fuse box from a 240Z

YES A JAP CAR!!

It's cheap new and after you get all the writting off it looks pretty good. It's got a cover and even a fuse removin' tool

I bought a 6 fuse panel from JC Whitney. It seems flimsy to me. I used it but I put a piece of plexiglass between it and the firewall. The plexi was cut so there would be a 1" border around the panel for extra insulation as the terminals were too close to the base for me. (helps prevent a short if a wire slips off)

On a previous project, I did what SoTx suggested. Got the panel from an 1980 Pontiac Phoenix. I mounted it on a piece of plexiglass with terminal strips on each side. It worked really well. On this project, I thought 6 fuses would be enough as the old truck only had 2 to start with.

I have a fuse panel out of a '47 Chevy pickup that has six or eight fuses in it. I don't know why they dropped back to only two fuses in the later years, but that early fuse panel seems perfect for my truck.

Actually, there was a third fuse in our truck. It was one of the inline jobs that just dangled under the dash. It was either for the turn signals or the heater blower - I didn't pay any attention what it was for because the wires were bare!!! I just chopped the whole thing out and now the blower and the signals each have a fuse.

I don't know why GM cut back on the fuses either - maybe somebody knows. It seems odd that the juice for all the lights go the circuit breaker on the light switch. If that breaker trips, for (say) a short in a headlamp, you lose everything - seems to me that it would be nice to still have your running lights if the headlamps go out.