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I have my floorbards cut out pretty much from the seat forward and a friend will be helping me replacce them next weekend. I have replacements recieved from classic parts and my problem is that my friend has suggested screwing the floorboards in place. I have a fluxcore mig welder but have found welding sheetmetal is hard especially with someone with no welding skill. Is there another safe way to replace floorboards without welding.

I don't know much about them, but the autobody places use bonding adhesives to bond metal together. I know there has been discussion on this in the past.

Eastwood is one of the many companies that sell metal bonding adhesives

take the floor pieces you cut out and after reading up on some proper welding techniques as far as clean and ready goes start practicing. That thing will spot things in if you just take some time with it. The pipe fitter who welded up my oil pan showed me that. It's not pretty and it's slug slow but learning how to use it will get you way farther than learning how to mix up glue. Speaking of gluing.... how many clamps have you got that will work on that floor panel? Panel adheasive (3M 8101) works great but it's not velcro, and may need more fiddely prep to make sure the surface is ready than welding would. Proper grit no grease or oil (On a truck floor?)
Learn to weld that thing or buy a plastic car I say...

One key I found helps me with welding sheet metal is using a copper 'spoon' as a heat sink on the back of the weld. and it helps to keep from blowing out. the tighter the better.

I would not use bonding adhesives for these structural floor pieces. In my opinion these must be welded.
Also, I am assuming you are replacing the floor support braces under the actual floor panels? Mine were completely rotted off.

I used some self tapping sheet metal screws in many places to hold things together nice and tight BEFORE I started spot welding it all together.

I had no experience either, but you'll find you'll get the knack quickly. One thing to try and remember is that when welding a nice new thick panel to a perhaps thinner existing panel the chance to blow through the old metal is greater. You'll quickly master the technique of "rolling" the weld bead from the thicker panel into the thinner panel and releasing the trigger before it blows a hole.
Using the right wire and experimenting with the settings should allow you to do a respectable job! GO for it!

On the copper spoon idea (which is great) don't buy the commercial ones sold by many companies. Go to the local hardware store and buy a couple one foot lengths of copper pipe a 1/2" for tight spots and a 1" piece for the rest. Flatten the ends with a hammer and your're good to go.

I flattened 3 used copper 3/4" 90* bends I had laying around and soldered them together for an inside radius... What ever works I say.

screws will protrude, be hard to seal, and invite water, and rust back into your floor and cab. All of what has been mentioned here, follow it. Use sheet metal screws to hold it in place to fit it up. On the flux welder, it does not tolerate dirty metal surfaces. both surfaces, top and bottom, need to be completely clean of rust and oils. Employ a good flap disc on a grinder and get it shiny. The copper welding spoons work great. Harbor Freight sells them for about $10. or flattened copper pipe. Just make sure it is flat. I've used the pipe in a pinch. For a sawbuck, the spoon is just easier. its flat, no creases, wider, and for $10, if it needs to be bent or contorted to reach a spot, then I now have a custom designed tool.

Just give it a spot weld for about a three count, let it cool, move an inch, and spot again. while it is cooling, you can move down the panel and start spot welding in another place. Check the fit after every weld. Remember, metal will move when exposed to heat, especially extremes as in welding. Practice on that old part of the floor to get the welder set right. Make sure your joint is tight. Once you weld, and if you have to put another weld over the top of the previous weld, make sure you put a wire brush on a grinder to clean off the flux. The flux becomes a contaminant if left, and will cause the weld to either fail, or rust.

When its all welded up, and you feel confident that it is right, remove the sheet metal screws and weld those holes shut, grind it all smooth, and hit with epoxy primer.

i use a weld through primer first. after done welding , grinding, be sure to seal all edges / joints etc. after priming with the epoxy. so water cant get in there.
seal with seam sealer, i think the 3m ultra pro sealer is best comes in a sawsage like container that you put in a special gun or use duraglass filler then undercoat or prime & paint