The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop balancer install

i have a 1951 chevy 3100 with a 216 i am goin to install the balancer back on i have read up on heating it up in the oven before install so it will go in "smoother" i was just wondering what temp to set the oven and how long to leave the balancer in there for? because i dont want to damage any rubber componants by over heating it, i just installed a new front cover seal and dont want it to melt before it takes its first spin.

hey misfits...I just did mine on my 40 ` 216. I heated the balancer in a sauce pan with water on the stove to 180 degrees and put a baggie of ice on the crank snout for about 15 minutes. then quickly used a 3 lb hammer with a 5 inch pipe that just fit over the balancer and pounded it on till it was seated. Woked well for me . Martinomon

I've never had an issue not using heat. I just use the BFH method.

I used a toasted oven set to 200 degrees and had the truck outside when it was about 10 degrees (both for about two hours), the balancer slid on 90% of the way then a small hammer and pipe the rest of the way, real simple and easy. Never hit the outer ring, the original GM tooling had fingers to hold the outer ring inline with the center portion.
The engine can safely run 200 degrees and hotter, so heating the balancer will not hurt it. Dusting spray used on computer keyboards and electronic devices can be used to cool the crank, just turn the can upside down, it will freeze it pretty quick.

Joe

the only issues I have had is they were so not tight I was afraid they would come off. They didn't, but there wasn't a lot of interference.

use a torch. simple and easy. If you don't have oxy-ace, then use a propane brazing torch. it should slip on like butter. I used a torch for my timing gear. I'll probably use it for my balancer too as long as it doesnt actually mess it up.

Don't get the balancer too hot or you will melt the front seal!

its probably easiest just to use a flippin balancer install tool.

GBUCK if the crankshaft was drilled on the end that would be a wonderful idea, however unless you drill it yourself, that is one little detail that will stop you cold. As they don't come that way, hence all the references to heating and hammering.

http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w451/1946chevy1/102_3287.jpg

235 full pressure crank, drilled for harmonic balancer bolt.

We can do this for the 216 too.

If you clean off all of the dirt, and all of the rust, and all of the nicks, and all of the
scratches and all of what prevents the balancer from sliding onto the snout, it
should tap on with out using heat, ice, BFH or anything other than a soft dead
blow hammer and a few good swats. A fine stone is useful in leveling high spots
due to nicks gouges and scratches.
These parts are precision machined for a close tolerance snug slide fit when they
are at the same temperature. You would not be able to hammer these on if it was
an interference fit. With parts this large and beefy it would take a hydraulic press
to put them together if they were made with an interference fit.
The reason they don't need a press fit or a bolt to keep them from coming off uses
the same principal as used to keep a flat belt tracking on pulleys without any
guides or flanges. The key to keeping a flat belt tracking on its own is the use of
"crowned pulleys" and the “alignment”. Those of you with belt sanders are
familiar with pulley alignment. In the case of a V-belt the belt in the groove keep
the pulleys tracking as long as they are not misaligned in some way with each
other.
Heat on any harmonic balancer in my opinion is a no-no. My logic is the balancer
ring is potted to the hub by rubber made to a specific durometer hardness.
Amazing as it may seem, most of the rubber is still in good shape even after many
decades because it is trapped between the two metal parts and protected from the
atmosphere. Heating the balancer can change the resiliency of the rubber
reducing its ability to dampen out the tensional vibration.
I might add, that if you tap the end of the crank as was mentioned by a couple of
members it make installing the balancer with an installer a piece of cake even if it
has that rust and dirt and those nicks, gouges and scratches. Ta heck with the next
guy that has to pull it off.
Denny Graham
Somewhere north of Sandwich, IL

The company that rebuilt my balancer was who told me to heat it. 180 to 200 degrees is normal operating temperature, how it that going to melt any rubber? A cold crank and hot balancer is enough difference for it to slide on.

I have since drilled and tapped my crank, but still heat the balancer before installing it. I changed camshafts this summer, and after two previous installs of the balancer, it was still very tight coming off.

I would just be curious of what the actual temperature at the inner hub of the balancer would be at running temperature of the engine. Does anyone have actual knowledge of what the oil temp runs in these engines? It is becoming very apparent I am going to have to acquire one of those laser temp guns. My curiosity is overcoming my will power to not spend the money on one, as they aren't really that expensive.

I am not being a jerk with this response, and I might be showing my ignorance with my common sense reply regarding the engine-crankshaft temperature, but I would suppose that it would be the temperature displayed on the dash temperature gauge? This temperature miht raise 20-40 degrees when you turn the engine off?

Also, the surface temperature near/on/at the exhaust manifold would be much hotter.

Oh no, I don't even think that at all. I don't know what the temp is, when I get my magic ray gun I will let everyone know what I find out. It could very well be engine temp, but I don't know, as the temp gauge shows the water temp at pretty much its maximum, while the oil has no cooling and the bottom of the pistons are quite hot. So I could believe anything.

thanks guys for your help. i'm goin to give it a shot n hopefully all goes well