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| | | Forums66 Topics128,076 Posts1,055,920 Members48,429 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 97 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2009 Posts: 97 | Little background before I get to my actual question. For the front I've got the Flat Out Engineering C4 IFS kit. I already have all of the C4 suspension. For the rear I'm going with the Ride Tech Universal 4 link suspension. This past weekend I got the 9 inch F*rd rear end which is out of a 73 Gran Torino.
My question is there a "better" order for converting the axles or is it simply personal preference? I am thinking that converting the rear suspension will be the better option because I can get the front of my truck to the ride height easier after it is done. Plus part of the instructions for the C4 calls for me to notch the outsides of the frame in order for the cross member to slide up into the frame.
Thoughts? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 | I am in kinda the same situation. I am putting Fatman's Mustang II IFS and No Limit Engineering Fatbar 4-link in rear.
I am seriously considering starting with the rear first because I am putting an under the bed fuel tank in and I will first make sure it and the rear fit together and then proceed to the front.
Also want to put in a K or X brace and box the frame while I've got it there in the open.
And maybe I just want to avoid fitting motor and trans between radiator and firewall and nothing more...I can't think of much of a difference it makes.
This is a 59 frame, but no incredible differences in the basic ladder frame riveted C-section technology--same as with your 49, for what I know.
Pinion angle you can set in the rear and then weld in engine mounts to match right. So...I don't know that it really makes any difference.
Maybe someone will jump in with some better thoughts, I'm not claiming experience or knowledge here, just some thoughts on how I got to my approach.
R-Bo
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction) 1966 GMC 305V6 in the family
| | | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 97 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2009 Posts: 97 | Yea i'm pretty much set on doing the rear first due to the notching of the frame in the front. Plus this gives me some time on getting the X or K brace in the middle and also where the motor mounts go.
Thanks for your input. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 800 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 800 | Don't forget to use weight bags or other weight before you make the final setup. Too many guys get everything all set........and then, oops. The driveshaft is too long, the wheels and tires scrape, the driveline angle is wrong, etc,... you'll have a bed of wood and sheetmetal and maybe a tank of gas to think about. It doesn't sound like the truck will ever haul a load again, so that won't be a consideration.:) | | | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 97 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2009 Posts: 97 | Using weight bags is a good idea. Something I haven't though about. I might not haul a load again that's not to say I won't be putting some luggage in the bed. | | |
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