The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Received ring and pinion from Patricks...

I received my ring and pinion kit from Patricks along with the instructions. The write up on the instructions is good, but the important photos are virtually worthless. The reproductin quality is so poor you cannot see anything in the photos. I also opted to not purchase any bearings, but I think that was a poor decision and will probably be getting all the bearings. Anyone have any tips to make this easier?

Edit: Found a tech tip on this site that helps a bit....

Yes, definitely change the bearings. It's difficult to remove/reinstall the rear pinion bearing, and the carrier bearings without damaging them. If a "small parts kit" is available with seals, shims, and other bits and pieces, get that also. Use an indicator paste like white lead or Prussian Blue to set the tooth contact pattern, and be sure to get the pinion bearing preload right as you're assembling the pinion gear into the carrier housing. A proper setup is essential to having a quiet, long-lasting gearset.
Jerry

Definitely get the bearing set. It will have all the goodies Jerry mentioned except Prussian Blue.

I have an album on my webshots page that will help with the picture issue. The key with this job is take the time to address the details. If you do, you will have many years of trouble-free driving.

Get the beaing/bushing/seal set.

Read HrL's post carefully.

Sweets's photo log was a great help for us.

Also, have a Shop Manual available for supplemental information.

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80038-Prussian-Blue-Tube/dp/B000HBM86Q

I received all the seals and gaskets, but forgot to get the bushing. Also, now my plan is to pull the bearings and try to purchase them locally by matching them up. Can't find the "prussian blue" or similiar at any FLAPS in my area. I will find something that works eventually.

FLAPS won't have it but industrial distributors like DGI (Doall), Grainger, Fastenal, etc. will. Search for cutting tool distributors in your area.

Go to any art supply store and buy a small tube of white oil paint. It works about as well as the old standby, white lead. All you need is a slow-drying oil-based pigment to show how the gear teeth are contacting. Before the lace-panty crowd got all exercised about lead-bearing products, it was possible to buy white lead pigment in 1-lb. cans and mix it with just a little linseed oil to get a great indicator dye for gear setup which also made the best possible lubricant for lathe centers. I've still got enough white lead to last me the remainder of my short lifetime, and I'm hoarding it!

Edit: Prussian blue is still used around machine shops as a high-spot indicator for lapped surfaces. Any machine tool supply store should have it in stock. Ditto for the online machinists' suppliers. It's absolutely essential for scrape-fitting 216 Babbit-bearing rods before shimming them for oil clearance!
Jerry

try orielly auto if you have one in your area
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...h_N0408_-1_-1&pt=N0408&ppt=C0139
I picked up a tube a while back.





it gets everywhere!

I got prussian blue at NAPA.

NAPA and Carquest both have it here.

Fastenal has Dykem steel blue layout fluid.

Thanks all. I did try oreillys first and no joy. I will try napa and then just ask the machine shop that currently has my engine (for the past 3 months).

Dykem doesn't work- - - -it dries almost instantly. The P/B or white lead is a slow-drying pigment that allows the gears to wipe the contact areas clean and show if the tooth contact pattern is right. As I said, if it's hard to locate the Prussian Blue, just use artists' oil paint straight from the tube without thinning. Brush a smooth, even layer on both sides of several ring gear teeth, then move the painted ring gear teeth back and forth vigorously past the pinion. The paint or bluing will be wiped away where the teeth contact, leaving a visual reference of the tooth contact pattern. Move the pinion in or out, or the ring gear closer or further away from the pinion to get the right contact pattern. It's essential to a quiet, long-lasting rear end setup to get the tooth contact right.
Jerry

Thanks for the clarification Jerry. Good excuse to do some more shopping.

I get my machine shop supplies online from Victor. Dykem makes a version of Prussian Blue called "hi-spot blue". It's the grease-based paste which doesn't dry quickly.

http://www.victornet.com/alphabetic/Blue-Layout-Fluid/329.html

Bottom of the page- - - -you'd need to order a few more items to get up to Victor's minimum order, however. They're very reasonable on prices for drill bits, cutting tools, and precision measuring tools like dial calipers, micrometers, etc.
Jerry

NAPA

Prussian Blue, Bearings, Valves, Gears & Other Close Tolerance Or Machined Clean-Up; Permatex

Part Number: 80038
Product Line: Balkamp

I will find some "prussian blue" and use it. So, I sucessfuly tore down the rear end with exception of pounding out the torque tube bushing (just have not tried yet). What I did not do was mark the carrier bearing nuts to know which side they came from. I dont see how that is important, but maybe they are machined diferently. Is this a big problem?

Looks like I will need new pinion bearings (front double row bearing lost half of one of the ball bearing retainers (got chewed up). Balls are all there. Rear bearing has wear on face of bearing race (I presume where it rides on retainer).

The carrier bearings look good and I will probably reuse as later replacment will not be diffilcult. Not sure about axle bearings yet.

Good thing I opened up this rear end as only a small amount of oil drained out and the bottom of the axle housing was full of sludge and a little water. The ring and pinnion gears have rust on several teeth surfaces. This truck sat in a field unused for decades. No rust on any bearings.

It is important to put the carrier nuts back in their correct place. They were machined along with the carrier.

Make sure you clean, clean, clean! Metal fragments in there will shorten the life of the new bearings!

Yep, so how do I determine which nut goes to which side. Hopefully it will be obvious.

Update: Called Patrick and he said the nuts are the same and dont need to be marked. Ordered the two pinnion bearings and front bushing. Patricks loans out the carrier bearing adjusting wrenches.

Jerry,

Thanks for the link to Victor. Been looking for a place like that. How are the quality of their drill bits?

Kurt

It doesn't matter on the nuts. The bearing caps are what needs to be in the proper place. They should have been marked before removal.

I marked the bearing caps, so no worries now. Patrick did say that if you forget to mark the caps, all you have to do is line up the threads on cap to journal and when they align, you have the cap in the correct location. Makes sense. Once I get the pinion bearings and bushing from Patrick (local bearing shop didn't have a clue on one bearing and the other was $20 more than Patrick), I will be ready to reassemble.

They have several different types of drill bits, including very high quality American-made ones. It's ea$y to figure out which ones those are! LOL! Actually, their mid-price bits are pretty good. They're the ones I sent out with the drill/tap kits I was making, and the guys who stole 'em didn't complain at all!
Jerry

Well, my rear end build is on perpetual hold. Patrick's is out of driveshaft bushings and can't get a delivery date from his normal supplier. Apparently, all the parts vendors are out of them as well and in the same boat. Ugh!

Having hell with back ordered parts: piston rings from Egge, front disk brake kit from Brothers, bushing from Patrick's.

If you need one fast I can help. I keep one in stock for use in my shop.
I assume this is for your 52.

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