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| | | Forums66 Topics128,052 Posts1,055,725 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 27 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 27 | This is probably a captain obvious question, but if I switch out the suspension and change the rotors for better, safer equipment, is it easier to change to disc brakes then or is there still a lot involved with changing the old drum system out? Long complicated sentence for something that is probably easy, but I am trying to figure out what I am going to change and how much it is going to be.
Also any recommendations for suspension for a 66 long fleet with a L6 would be very much appreciated. Thanks for putting up with me yet again. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | The stock suspension is pretty hard to improve on. The design was good enough that GM used it with only minor changes all the way up to '91 on pickups, and '95 on the vans. Improvements like disk brakes and power steering can be done without changing the balance of the suspenion system. The rear suspenion system is also very good, good enough that Nascar uses it under all the vehicles used in the top 3 series.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 788 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 788 | wasn't it 73 -87 for p/u and 91 for suburbans and c/cabs. the minor changes can screw you around if you mix and match. it is simpler to take the complete frt end out of a newer truck (crossmember and all suspension). one just has to modify 2 holes on either side and it is together. use the strg box and p/b stuff from the same truck the frt end came from. donor trucks from 73-87 are usually quite reasonable now ron | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,951 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,951 | If I switch out the suspension and change the rotors for better, safer equipment, is it easier to change to disc brakes then or is there still a lot involved with changing the old drum system out? I am trying to figure out what I am going to change and how much it is going to be.
Also any recommendations for suspension for a 66 long fleet with a L6 would be very much appreciated. Thanks for putting up with me yet again. The upgrade from drum brakes to disc brakes is fairly straight forward. Several vendors sell complete kits which include new rotors and all the pieces needed, and it can be done by almost anyone with basic tools. Kits include new spindles. The spindles can be ordered in a stock stance or lowered two and a half inches. Therefore, you need to decide what stance you want before you start the project. If you decide to lower the truck, then drop spindles (lowered spindles) should be ordered AND you will want to get lower springs for the rear so the truck looks fairly level when you are done. Upgrading to disc brakes should include new ball joints and while you are at it, new tie rods too. I am in the process of a front suspension rebuild, including drum brakes. View my link at the bottom and you can see some of the things involved. I plan to swap drum to disc later, but I have not decided if I want to lower my truck or not, so right now I will build it back with the factory stance.
Last edited by Lugnutz; 10/10/2012 10:05 AM.
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | padresag, you are correct, regular pickups it's to '87, and suburbans to '91. On 1 ton trucks, it gets a little sketchy, as there is some crossover. 4 door crew cabs were built on the old body until '91, as were standard cab chassis cab models. However, there was a chassis cab version of the '88-'91 body as well.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 435 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 435 | If you're like most of us, and want to do it on the cheap.I'd recommend doing as Padresag has suggested and find a donor to get everything you'll be using. It's a straightforward job, and easier to do it once, than to spend the money to restore drum brakes and find when you're finished, that you're wishing you had went with the disc in the first place. I'm telling you this from experience. Spent a load of bux getting mine brought back to original, only to find I'm not satisfied with drum brakes, regardless of how "new" thay are. Runs fine, but if you can't stop, where's the fun in that. I like driving mine too much and am always wondering if in a pinch the drums will do the job. Tramp | | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 132 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 132 | I ordered the disc brake kit, 2" drop spin. along with the power brakes. This was fairly easy to install.
Brett | | |
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