The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Harbor Freight........What worked?.... What didnt?

builder, what kind of light did you put in your blast cabinet? my light worked for about a day and would like to replace it. not a HF unit but some other cheap brand from TSC. right now i just throw my cheap led trouble light in.

I put two small exterior halogens in my cheap glass bead cabinet. Then there was light! Wired them up with a switch, so the lights and vacuum come on together. Also the $5 double ended spot weld cutter works great!

I agree the spot weld cutter works great. You can see my results on my BLOG. It will probably cut 40 to 60 spot welds depending on how thick the steel is and how carefully you use it.

i agree with the vacuum i hooked one up to mine right away. also drilled a few holes on the back side up on top. that allows me to open and close the door without turning the vacuum off. also prevents the vacuum from sucking up to much of the media. i will look for some kind of halogen to see if it will work in mine. thanks for the info

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=769585#Post769585

I picked up a set of stubbys after reading the post above.

They are just the right size for working around the carb.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-stubby-combination-wrench-set-97383.html

i have a set of stubbys but not hf models very handy little suckers. i also have a set of half moon wrenches that i use for very tight spots. i seem to have a thing for tools like these that you dont use everyday but they have there uses once in awhile.

I have the need for a belt sander, and went and looked at the HF 4 X 24 magnesium sander for 70 bucks. Has anybody had any experience with them? The Crapsman I had finally had the good grace to die, and I need to replace it. I don't use a belt sander all that often, but when I need it I need it. Any and all opinions are welcome.

I don't know if someone already mentioned this, but I bought a cable tie puller tool (For getting those plastic ties really tight,) and it worked one time, and was so cheesy, the thin metal mechanism slipped on itself and jammed. Junk. But, was no problem getting a refund (although the store is 25 miles away!)

Halogen really gives light and added bonus is that the heat keeps the sand dry...

I bought the stud welder for $99. There is a tool place here in Canada, that has one for $350. To me it looks like it came out of the same factory in China. It was worth the chance. It works great.

i don't buy much a hf but once and a while i get suckered in. i do get the cut off air wheels, gloves, and some other consumables there with no problems. i did try a air scraper for $10 a while back, wouldn't even move. took it back in exchanged it, same thing. tried one for the 3rd time and still the same- i really need this for a single project. i didn't even care if it worked after that. finally looked on their website and tons of people were having the same problem. one person they took theirs apart and reworked it and it worked after that. they must have had one heck of a bad run on those. i just thought it was funny every comment/review on their own site said this scraper was junk!

I typically only buy HF tools if it's something I know I won't use very often. I've had decent luck with their 3/4" drive socket set, a tubing bender and an NTP tap & die set. Their pressurized sand blaster ended up with a broken shut-off valve after a half day of use. I prefer to buy American but it's hard to justify the cost on some items which will see minimal use. Even Craftsman is selling imported hand tools now....it's not something they advertise but alot of their cheaper tool sets are Chinese.

added: Don't waste your money on their drill bits. They're junk.

I just bought some cheap outdoor lights with a jar that screws around the lightbulb. I use 100 watt bulbs and I have 2 of them.

This Harbor Freight outfit sounds much like Princess Auto here in Canada . Lots of junk ,some that will do in a pinch ,with the odd good product tossed in for s@#t's and giggles .

Yep... been to both. They are about the same. However, HF has better quality on a lot of the tools, but Princess has a lot of trailer, hydraulic and farm related items. Red1946, do you ever go to the Edmonton KMS? I swear some of the Chinese stuff in there is the same as Harbor. But Harbor is a lot cheaper.

Yeah I buy my welding gas from them and some auto body tools and supplies , but I have learned the hard way to buy quality and only purchase once . Bought a lot of junk just to get by when I was younger and couldn't afford better .

Harmnonic balancer puller- DIDN'T Work. In fact it exploded into 2000 pieces. (No exaggeration) I didn't even use the air gun, just a 1/2" wratchet.

Is this the set you used? My old harbor freight set has worked fine on about 8 235/261 engines. It has also worked well on removing many steering wheels.

Maybe they have become poorer in quality - mine is about 14 years old?

I bought a bead breaker. I had a stubborn tire and bent it.
I like the cheap air drill. I put a quick chuck on it and am on my second one in 30 years. They aren't real powerful but it works fine.

TC-That's the exact set I bought. I could believe it. Only a 1/4 turn with the wratchet and BLAM! I couldn't believe how poor the casting was.

On the flip side, I've had good luck with their air tools. Die grinder, cut off saw, right angle grinder. I've had a set of uni-bits for about 5 years. Use them all the time, not dull yet.

I believe you, Whitedog

Sorry to hear about this bad experience. How did you finally get the balancer off?

I borrowed someone else's puller. BTW- it was a Snap-on.

I've done a lot of business with HF since my truck project began.
I've purchased items like the cherry-picker, engine stand, jack stands, caliper and OD micrometers, grinders, socket sets, break-over bars, torque wrenches, some pneumatic tools (I seldom use those) and recently a 90 amp flux core welded and auto-darkening helmet. Sorry... I could go on...
In summary... to me, they're just a cheap source for tools. I've found that if there is a problem with a tool I can take it back and get a replacement. Especially if I bow up and look mad! ha
If I were in business I'd have to buy better quality stuff... but for this project, they'll do just fine.
As for my latest, the flux core welder, I can say it did it's job. The wire spatter was as bad as the reviews said it would be but I still got through just fine. I put a patch panel on my passenger door bottom and it looks great. I might add, I've never welded before this.
Jerry Wilson

I have used mine for about 10 spools now and it's getting kinda finicky. It stalls on the wire feed a lot so the other day I decided to snip the zip tie inside the handle that held the lines in place. Big difference now. I think the zip was just too tight and as things have worn it started biting when at certain angles or twisted. Other than that it works up to 1/4" sort of and smaller just fine as dirty as advertised but they also advertise die grinders for 10 bucks and they take all of about ten seconds to clean things up. After all its sitting there from prepping the weld any way isn't it???

I just thought that as for fixing the doors myself versus buying expensive aftermarket doors made overseas to who knows what quality, the welder was a cheap success story for me.
Finding any used doors after lengthy searches, led me to doors much like my own... with rusted out bottoms. I'm just excited that all but the last bottom inch of my doors are solid and original.
OH! That reminds me, I also bought a nifty HF plier set, designed to pull away the door outer skin where it folds over the inner panel! Also, a couple of the spot weld removal drills. They worked like a champ!
I don't know if I will get through that single spool of wire that came with the rig as I don't have many projects requiring welding. I've read in reviews to throw it away and get some Lincoln wire. I have no experience to base anything from... so I'll continue to use it and also use my 10 dollar grinder for any future small jobs.
Jerry

I have bought some hand tools from HF and like most people say, if you're not in the business they'll do for the job. However, I still like all my Mikita power tools. I have had some of them for 30 years, and built my house, outbuildings and working on a shop now. I bought a cheap grinder at Canadian tire, probably came from the same factory as HF just because it was cheap. I thought I would give it a try. After a few months the bearings bit it. I could replace the bearings I guess, but they probably cost more than the grinder. I'll take it apart, just because I love to do things like that. The point is, we buy cheapo stuff because we have become a disposable society. I highly recommend a book, "Shop Class as Soul Craft by Matthew B. Crawford. He mentions how we buy items not meant to last or be fixed. A lot of parts are made not to even give access to be fixed. From what I have read so far, I am really going to try and cut down on buying junk. It gets a lot deeper into loss of craftsmanship, hiring unskilled workers to put junk together. I do find HF does have items that are good quality and also cheap. Just have to be selective. By the way, I'll be passing my quality tools onto my relatives when I can no longer use them. I know they will still be good and not in the landfill.

a quality tool makes the job easier, less frustrating and you can actually enjoy using the tool and smiling at the finish product. Man, what a rush!

The large floor jack and pipe threaders from HF are junk, I threw them away. I have got some tools that were ok, but mostly I buy quality tools. I fix things for a living. You get what you pay for. I agree Achipmunk!

I bought 4 spotweld drills figuring they'd wear out in a hurry. I still have 1 good used one and three unused!

Les

Not sure what model floor jack you had but mine works great. I agree that a lot of the stuff is junk. That's why I check the reviews they have online before I get too interested in something. Roadmarks likes the spot weld remover bit and I agree, it works great at a fraction of the price that most sell for.

Stud welder is junk.. studs fall off easily..

I have been using the stud welder with more success. Pulled out some dents on my cab. Will post if I find it not holding up on the next area I need to work on.

You must have gotten a bad stud welder. I've welded hundreds and hundreds with no problem.
Dave Evans
52_3100

More threads on the same topic.

Post159551

and

Post159532

I can add that their 750lb engine stand, 1 ton foldable cherry picker and heat gun have worked well. I used the engine stand for 2.8L V6, not sure how it would do with an inline 6.

I used the stand with my 261.
It did fine but it was tricky connecting the stand to the engine.
If I knew I were going to do more of these L6 rebuilds, I'd have to create an adapter plate.
Jerry

I never welded in my life, but had some patch panels to restore my rusted out door bottoms.
Rather than have it done for who knows what cost, I decided to buy the HF 90 amp flux core welder. It was a TOTAL success! Not bad for less than $100.
I've also used it to restore my vent window frame (the lower threaded stud was broke off).
I plan on also using it to weld in the side rails when I get to the bed part of the project.
Jerry

I have had good luck with some Harbor Freight tools. Keep in mind, these are tools that I do not use often.

This is my first air sprayer. With a little practice, I've found it to lay paint really well.
http://www.harborfreight.com/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html

The Pitman arm puller has been used three times so far. Used it today to pull the arm off of a '76 manual steering gear at a pick-a-part. That sucker was on there!
I wouldn't expect it to simply pull an arm, it starts to flex once good and tight. I like to apply penetrating oil, pull it tight, give it ten minutes, pull on it a couple more times, and give it more time. If that fails, wack the heck out of the side of the arm and grab a turn or two more. You get the idea.
http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-1752.html

Ball joint separator. This forged unit is kind of nice. Fits in tight joints well. Used it on four tie rod ends, both ends of an idler arm and the ball joint on the pinion of my '72 GMC 1500. Use the advice from above. Patience, Grasshopper, patience.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html

Pipe tap and die set. Used mainly for cleaning threads.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-pipe-tap-die-set-91395.html

Things like the six ton jack stands are nice. Simple item, try to get them on sale.
I have one of their 2 ton engine cranes, felt sturdy pulling the 235 out of my step van. The engine had to come out through the door opening; the crane in the 500 pound position. I don't see them for sale anymore.

However. If you want to mess up some threads, try this tap and die set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/40-piece-sae-carbon-steel-tap-and-die-set-39391.html

I avoid most of the disposables. I learned my lesson with the 4" cut off wheels and some wet/dry sandpaper. But things like throw away brushes and paint screens are cheap and work fine.

I just can't see any value in their power tools. Lowes and Home Depot both have cheap power tools of better quality.

I like the rating system. I have to give them credit for that.

Gary

Whitedog,

My puller finally gave out after over 15 years of use, pulling steering wheels and many other things. Last week, the threads on the center-screw partially stripped when pulling a stubborn harmonic balancer (a rusted onto the crankshaft balancer). Oh well, maybe that $10 or less was not well spent (15 years ago, no tax and free shipping then)?

Maybe I will check about getting a new screw and "head" - when I bought it, the warranty was life-time.

I have been replacing the lower right half of the cab and floorboard lately. WAY too many patch panels invested in so far.

But, I bought the air flange/punch tool from HF last Friday and used it all weekend. If it only lasts the weekend, it will be worth the $39 I paid for it. It worked great! Punched holes so I could do some "spot" welding, and flanged existing good metal so an amateur like me could match them up while welding.

They offered me the 2-year guarantee (for extra of course). I told the guy that if it lasts through the 90-day standard warranty, I will have gotten my $39 out of it.

Highly recommended. Oh, and I am using it with a portable DeWalt small air compressor. Doesn't do much more than 16 gauge (and that with a few presses of the trigger), but all my patch panels were that thickness.

-Jim

Jim, I would suggest to practice up a bit on panel fitment and use a butt weld.. In the lap vs. butt weld debate, regardless of whether one side of the joint has one, two, three thicknesses or more, the heat from welding will cause shrinking and the resulting distortion from this shrinking of the panel adjacent to the weld. But to clarify, the greater the thickness and mass, the more heat required for the weld. Thus, the lap joint actually takes more heat to perform the weld than a butt joint. What you must consider in your methods is how on earth you will fix these issues to return the panel after welding to the original shape that was there before. The plain and simple of it being, that a single sheet on either side of a butt weld will be easiest to planish to remove this shrinkage distortion. Two thickness will be near impossible to planish without inflicting more damage.

Something I've emphasized many times is the importance of consistency. This starts from the fitment of the panel, to the methods used in welding, to the methods used in planishing and grinding welds. If you have consistency in all of your processes, the end result will save you work in the long run. I'll discuss the various welding methods, as discussing the differences will help to better understand consistency:

Gas (O/A) or Tig would be a cleaner choice in welding in that they leave no splatter or slag all over the place. The amount of warpage is relative to the amount of heat you put into the panel via how long you sit there, so typically, MIG vs. TIG (when applying filler rod with the TIG), the MIG would have less of a HAZ. However, if you can trim your joints to zero gaps such that a no-filler weld can be performed (fusion welding) in using the TIG or O/A, then you should have about as small a HAZ as possible, and as consistent in width as possible, for less distortion. To explain this further, various starting and stopping in your weld will cause inconsistent width of the HAZ, along with the shrinking effects that come with it. This may lead to a "wavy" distortion. The process with the most consistent heat and consistent speed, would be the fusion weld (no filler), using TIG or Gas, and running from one end to the other without stopping. Performing the weld in this fashion will help to keep the HAZ, and all the other conditional reactions consistent, for less distortion.


Here is a excerpt from David Gardiner's instructional video, He is a coachbuilder in England that primarily uses gas welding. He says that his method uses little to no filler, uses a faster process, for a narrower more consistent width HAZ, less distortion, and little if any cleanup as far as grinding welds. I'd also recommend the purchase of his video, he does a nice job of demonstrating fabrication techniques using little more than hand tools.





Having said all that, most hobbyists have nothing more than a small MIG in their home shop, and those conditions are hard to duplicate with the MIG when welding sheet metal. Even though it is not compatible with a full pass weld when dealing with sheetmetal, you can still apply the same principles of consistency in using a MIG and "dot" welding. Single dots, skip around, use same overlap, same size dots (elapsed time of trigger pull) etc. This won't make the weld as nice as the fusion weld described above, but it will help with consistency if the MIG is what you're using. The biggest thing on consistency with the MIG is to practice on some scrap pieces the same guage as you'll be working with to insure your welder is set up correctly for a full penetration weld. It's hard to be consistent if you're putting in the patches and still fiddling with welder settings, (practicing on the good stuff).

Next, if you aren't very good at trimming the panels to fit tightly together, the O/A or TIG is going to be more likely to blow holes (depending on your proficiency to keep up in adding filler rod where needed); this is an area where the MIG is more forgiving as it is automatically feeding filler. But again, more filler is creating more heat, more shrinking. So any inconsistent panel fitment, i.e.: tight joint in some spots and wide gaps in others in the same panel, will result in more filler, more heat, and more shrinkage in those wider gaps, for inconsistent shrinking results and likely a wavy panel will result. The O/A and TIG processes prefer a tight joint for less chance of blowout. Lastly, TIG can sometimes be awkward to use in some remote locations (i.e.: under a car, any hard to reach location where using a foot pedal is cumbersome) O/A will be a bit easier as no foot pedal, and the MIG is more of a point and shoot type deal. All things to consider when chosing your methods.


Now, back to the panel flanger. I don't personally use panel adhesive, but this is actually one of the few areas where the flanger should be used. But the downside, regardless of attachment method in using a flanger, is you'll have two panels on one side of the "joint", one on the other, and despite a skim of filler over top to finish it off, you will more than likely see a ghost reference line in the finished paint as one side has a differing expansion rate due to the increased thickness. Panel adhesive application will also require plenty of clamps to keep everything snug while the adhesive sets. Mainly used on newer repairs in the collision industry, much of their driving factor is getting something in and out the door to keep costs down to appease the insurance companies. I can't say if it would be a viable option for you as I haven't used it. But on the other hand, I'm sure if you asked the local body shop's opinion, they would rave about it, as less time = more money in their case. This may bias their opinion for that reason.

In the end, you need to pick the method that works best for you, and produces results you will be happy with. I'm sure I may have created as many questions as answers, but hopefully it will help expand your research for a more informed decision.