The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop how to change motor mounts? 1953 3100

hey! I have a 53 burb with a 56 235.
I got in a fender bender the other day and the fan hit the radiator and caused it to leak.

It looks like the passenger side mount needs replaced. how can i tell? Should I do both? left and right? Prior to the accident Ive felt what feels like the engine climbing or bucking when in 2nd (4 speed, skipping 1st) How do i know if i need a front mount as well

how do I change it? I tryed to search for it but couldent find a previous post. If you know where the link to a good reference that would be awesome.


I have the torque tube still, can I change the mounts with a jack under the tranny? do I need to undo torque tube?


Ive found new radiators for 170,
Ive only found 2 used ones around my town and they want 80 and 100. The guy who wants 80 wants to meet me somewhere, sounded kinda sketchy, like if i was gonna sell some one a bad radiator , i wouldent want them to know where i lived right?
Should I get a brand new one or a used one?
Id hate to get a new one and have the engine buck again and ruin it. this mean i gotta take care of the mounts aswell right?

thanks for any input

Use a jack and a block of wood to gently lift up on the engine at each mount location, if it moves much or is broken free replace the mounts.
Use same jack method to support engine while replacing mounts, it's that simple.

Grigg

Just my 5 cents. A used radiator is always a bit of a crap shoot. Radiators that are now 60 years old? If you replace the mounts I would spring for the new. Now to the mounts. The rear mounts are difficult to access in truck but can be done. Not unusual for both front and rear to have lots of movement if original. The rear mount has one bolt through the frame and two into the bell housing. The one on the frame can wallow out and is most likely loose, I have also seen threads ruined by bolt movement at the housing. Most likely this frame bolt is loose. The front mounts can also be loose but are easier to change. There are threads here on that subject. The tub and top plate are not reproduced so save them. Buy a new shield and rubber insert and new bolts where needed for this. You will need to raise the motor a bit for clearance. The time to do it is now with the radiator out.
New rear mounts are available from most vendors, they are rubber covered steel, there is also a HD mount in steel available NOS only on eBay infrequently. Bottom line is I would change both of the rears and rebuild the front before putting in a new radiator. Denny Graham has some good pictures of the front mount on his site I have pictures of them to in my reference folder. Good Luck!

Thanks for linking to my front motor mount saga, GMONIZ. I hope that I accurately documented the installation process.

> drew_vigil
There is some good info from a number of 'Bolters in the FRONT MOUNT INFORMATION link.
< CLICK > Here is the summary.