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#88246 09/24/2004 2:55 AM
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 141
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S Offline
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 141
I have installed most of my new wiring harness, except for lights, etc. I have made all the connections for 12V alternator, ammeter, gas gauge, coil, starter, ignition switch and battery. I'm one of those guys who likes to test everything a little at a time, so the VOM will get some use in the next couple of days.

This is a Chevy Duty harness for 12V alternator.
According to their wiring scheme it looks like the gas gauge should function when I turn the key to "start/ign" (this is a foot start vehicle). Other than looking at the gauge to see if it is working, are there any other simple things I should look for?

Once I am sure I have it wired correctly I'll run a wire from the BAT terminal on Ign switch to the headlight switch and start checking circuits. Thanks in advance for tips.

shoeless

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
shoeless,

No replies yet, so I will give it a try but I am no expert on this one (though I have experienced and diagnosed every problem below - except frying a 6v guage with 12v current).

Your profile says you have a 1952 half-ton Chevy.

First, if you are using the original gas guage, use a correct voltage reduce (I think it is called a Runtz resistor) on the side of the hot lead..

It looks like you are going step-by-step in testing things out. You can check out the guage (without the sender lead in place) by giving it current (yes, it gets current when the ignition switched is turned on). The guage should peg to Full. If it does not, you might not have current going to the guage (easy to check), you might have a poorly grounded guage cluster case (run a good lead to the case and see what happens), the guage might not be grounded to the case (a little harder to trace this back unless you are bench testing the guage cluster), or you might have a bad guage unit (12 volts without a resistor can fry the guage).

If the guage pegs to full, you could then move on to connecting the sender unit lead and proceeding with a new set of tests.

If any of the above is wrong, incomplete, or poorly described, someone will post better advice.

Good luck,
Tim


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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