The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay All Lights Stopped Working

Yesterday i replace a gauge cluster bulb on my 1953 chevy 3100. I replaced the cluster and pulled the knob out and everything was good and lighting up. At night i went back to move the truck and my headlights, dash lights as well as tail lights are out. Turn signals are the only thing working right now. Any ideas? Any help appreciated.

Fuse?

I checked the light switch for a fuse but it doesnt seem to have one. The only fuses i have/checked were stop/tail lights on the firewall.

you might hit the dimmer switch to see if that might cause a reaction, check to see if the dimmer switch wires are tight and connected, I know they control the head lights, not sure about the instruments lights...mine use to act crazy at times..

Already pressed and depresed the dimmer switch but still nothing. I got a out voltmeter to test for current and cant seem to get current from the ammeter tab on the light switch. Could the regulator be at fault?

might be the light switch...

The light switch has a bi-metallic thermal circuit breaker in it. Dirty points or another type of problem with the circuit breaker would cause the symptoms you describe. Look closely at the top of the switch opposite the knob and you will see it. Joker is probably right.
Kent

Thanks for all the help. I'l replace the light switch with a new one hope its not something else.

before you spend any money, check all the connections on the switch [and nearby] to see if you pulled something loose when you were taking out the gauge pod .... do you really have to remove the cluster to replace dash lite bulbs??

Bill

The bulb came loose from the socket while trying to install it and it dropped inside the cluster hole so i had to remove the whole unit to take out the bulb. Can someone explain what does it mean to have a fused dome, brake, glove box switch? Why have a fused dome, brake....?

You should be measuring power (voltage) not current (amps). (Your ammeter does that.)

Some people are telling you it's the switch. If there is no voltage at the ammeter terminal of the switch I don't see how they can determine that. The way some people trouble shoot is to start replacing parts willy-nilly. That can become very expensive and solve nothing. Since you have already gotten your voltmeter out, I can see you're not that way.

If you are not getting power to the switch go to the other end of that wire and see if it got disconnected. Make sure it doesn't have a break hidden under the insulation. Keep checking until you find the problem, then fix it.

I replaced mine once because when I pulled it out
the knob and pen came out in my hand.. figured it was broke..

willy-Nilly .. never heard that term,lol
probably refers to a lot of us here that listen
to all the experts, I had about five reasons why
my rod was hard to start when hot, timing, starter over heating,
etc............turned out to be a dead cell in a battery, my wife suggested I have the battery checked.....lol

probably if it was working before you started messing with it then you probably did something to make it no longer work..happens a lot.....

Funny thing is that it worked for a while today, put the instrument panel back as well as the light switch and all of sudden everything is not working again. Back to square 1. I hope is the light switch because its already on its way.

well if not, you now have a spare... mine worked for awhile
after I pushed the knob/pen in but it was intermediate ..

I got a cheap universal one..

Light switch was not the problem. IT was a bad connection at the ammeter.