The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay fuse size for heater switch???

I just found an original toggle type switch for the fresh-air heater on my '53. It didn't come with a fuse, so I need to know what amp fuse to put in.

I have converted to 12 volt. I'm really hoping that the old switch will handle the extra voltage.

Thanks,
Steve

Don't know if it's stock, but mine has a 14amp
fuse. I think you should worry about the motor in your heater and other electrical parts if your converting to 12V. You should put in voltage reducers in line with your heater, horn, radio, gauges, dome light, etc. The switch is the one thing you probably don't have to worry about. Good luck to you on your project. Cecil.........

Those switches have been known to act rather strange on 12v. Some work fine, some smoke like crazy. YMMV. The 6v motor will work fine, but run very fast. The parts companies sell 12v motors for the heaters, and Grainger carries one that fits. Search the archives for that part number.

If the switch doesn't work, I'm not out anything, it was free. Although,it did come from a GMC, so it should work, right?

I'm still using the old 6 volt heater motor on the low speed setting. It does travel fast, but so far it seems to be holding up. I don't run it very long, just enough to take the chill out of the air. When it finally blows up, I'll get the Grainger motor.

I don't like to use resistors, because of the heat problem. I had a resistor in line to the heater switch, but it got so hot that it melted the insulation off the wires connected to it. But, I did use a Runtz resistor on the gas gauge.

The vendors carry an aftermarket 12v switch that isn't very expensive. I'd give the original toggle switch a try, just don't be too surprised if it starts smoking or some other unusual behavior.

I had to put a dab of solder between the fuse lug and the "bat" terminal to complete the circuit. Apparently corrosion has gotten between the copper fuse lug and the steel terminal. Anyway, I wired it up and turned it on. It worked!

But, is the first position supposed to be the "high" setting and the 2nd position the "low" setting? If so, everything appears to be OK. The coil smoked a little on the "low" but soon stopped. Must have been some gunk on it.

I assume that the coil is to dissipate the heat from the reduced voltage to make the motor run slower on the low speed setting, correct?

Thanks
Steve