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Joined: Feb 2005
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I am now trying to go through my front brakes and replace the wheel cylinders, brake shoes, springs and hoses on my 1940 3/4 ton.

I am trying to seperate the flexible hose from the front brake line where it passes through the frame. Unfortunatly everything seems to be one big rusted mass at this point. I am so afraid I will either break the brake line or strip the fitting.

If I do, can I get at the front brake line to replace it? It disappears through the frame and seems to run under the radiator over to the other side.

How is the brake line held in place to the frame.

I really don't think I can do this without replacing the line. I'm afraid once I get the line seperated from the hose it will be so rusted I won't be able to get a good seal on the new parts.

Info or advice is welcome.

Thanks


Bill Schickling

1940 1/2 ton, 1940 3/4 ton
My web page
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,418
ODSS Lawman
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The brake lines are held with little tabs that are screwed to the frame. You may have to dig some grease and road grime off your frame to find them.

You can either bend your own lines or the parts vendors have them already bent and ready to go.



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1950 GMC 450
1951 Chevy 1/2-Ton
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<Drivers Side>

<Center>

<To passenger side junction>

I flared and bent all my lines using the old ones as a template and cheaper tools. So far so good. (My first attempt as well)

Last edited by Bigtonka; 08/26/2012 8:58 PM.
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Extreme Gabster
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Looks darn good for a first timer. You couldn't tell it by looking.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
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Originally Posted by cletis
Looks darn good for a first timer. You couldn't tell it by looking.


Thanks Cletis! I appreciate the compliment.

It was last years winter job while the truck was under 4' of snow. Took my time and eventually came up with a method of using sharpies to mark my bends.

In the end the lines are pretty forgiving with slight bends here and there during installation. It sure saves the pocketbook to do it yourself - I think I spent $45 in straight preflared lines. I would then cut one end off to get the line to the right size, and only have to flare one end per section.

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If you are rusted up that bad, likely need to replace the hard and soft lines anyhow. As previous posters have said, making and installing new steel lines is not a difficult task. Flex lines can be purchased from any number of suppliers.


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When buying a tube flaring tool kit, be sure it has double flaring capability. As shown in Bigtonka's pictures. Been making my own gas, brake, and vacuum lines for years with no problems.


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How can you not love this place.

Thanks for the pictures. It looks like I better decide to get dirty. Really dirty. Where's Mike Rowe when you need him?

Making the lines isn't an issue. I have a mastercool flaring set, so I can make them.

Now I just have to be able to get at them.

Thanks again.


Bill Schickling

1940 1/2 ton, 1940 3/4 ton
My web page

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