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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,109 Posts1,056,267 Members48,439 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 338 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 338 | I am now trying to go through my front brakes and replace the wheel cylinders, brake shoes, springs and hoses on my 1940 3/4 ton.
I am trying to seperate the flexible hose from the front brake line where it passes through the frame. Unfortunatly everything seems to be one big rusted mass at this point. I am so afraid I will either break the brake line or strip the fitting.
If I do, can I get at the front brake line to replace it? It disappears through the frame and seems to run under the radiator over to the other side.
How is the brake line held in place to the frame.
I really don't think I can do this without replacing the line. I'm afraid once I get the line seperated from the hose it will be so rusted I won't be able to get a good seal on the new parts.
Info or advice is welcome.
Thanks | | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,418 ODSS Lawman | | ODSS Lawman Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,418 | The brake lines are held with little tabs that are screwed to the frame. You may have to dig some grease and road grime off your frame to find them.
You can either bend your own lines or the parts vendors have them already bent and ready to go.
SWEET Sergeant At Arms: Old Dominion Stovebolt Society BUNS?!?!?!Where we're going, we don't need no buns.....1950 GMC 450 1951 Chevy 1/2-TonThe GreenMachineIn the Stovebolt Gallery | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 575 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 575 | <Drivers Side> <Center> <To passenger side junction> I flared and bent all my lines using the old ones as a template and cheaper tools. So far so good. (My first attempt as well)
Last edited by Bigtonka; 08/26/2012 8:58 PM.
| | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | Looks darn good for a first timer. You couldn't tell it by looking. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 575 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 575 | Looks darn good for a first timer. You couldn't tell it by looking. Thanks Cletis! I appreciate the compliment. It was last years winter job while the truck was under 4' of snow. Took my time and eventually came up with a method of using sharpies to mark my bends. In the end the lines are pretty forgiving with slight bends here and there during installation. It sure saves the pocketbook to do it yourself - I think I spent $45 in straight preflared lines. I would then cut one end off to get the line to the right size, and only have to flare one end per section. | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | If you are rusted up that bad, likely need to replace the hard and soft lines anyhow. As previous posters have said, making and installing new steel lines is not a difficult task. Flex lines can be purchased from any number of suppliers. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 583 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 583 | When buying a tube flaring tool kit, be sure it has double flaring capability. As shown in Bigtonka's pictures. Been making my own gas, brake, and vacuum lines for years with no problems.
1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 338 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 338 | How can you not love this place.
Thanks for the pictures. It looks like I better decide to get dirty. Really dirty. Where's Mike Rowe when you need him?
Making the lines isn't an issue. I have a mastercool flaring set, so I can make them.
Now I just have to be able to get at them.
Thanks again. | | |
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