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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,036 Posts1,055,448 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 34 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2012 Posts: 34 | hi guys, i have started to have a problem with the lights on my truck. my headlights have stopped working, the rear lights, front parking lights, turn signals and dash lights work but not the headlights, i also keep getting a fuse blow stopping all the above from working along with the horn! any ideas what might be the cause. the wiring has been messed with and i have had to re-wire some of it. could it be the light switch or dimmer?
thanks
bill. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 | As one should know, if the fuse pops the circuit is drawing more currrent or amps than the fuse can provide. When does the fuse blow? When you turn the headlights on, blow the horn, apply brakes, etc. If it blows right away after doing one of the above, you might have a short in the wiring to that device. You also might be asking for too much from that one fuse. Maybe hooking the horn on another fuse will solve your problem. Better yet, add a horn and headlight relay if you don't already have them. Horns are known to be amp hungry.
Six volt guy living in a twelve volt world
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Most often headlight problems are at the dimmer switch. It is in a horible invironment. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 34 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2012 Posts: 34 | i am still investigating the fault, yesterday i rewired from termination block to termination block for the headlights and part of the loom going back to the switch, the cable going down to the dimmer is a bit of a mess but it is still intact with no copper showing. i am getting 11v at the termination blocks for the headlights when the switch is pulled out but not at all points. it looks like the previous owner installed a new switch, it looks new. i am not sure when the fuse blows i need to look at that. the guy who had it before me has installed an assesory home made type of fuse block maybe thats causing the problem. because it has had a V8 installed it has aftermarket temp and amp gauges, the amp gauge used to show normal (13v to 14v) but recently it is showing low in the red, when i apply the turn signal the amp needle moves up and down slightly as the bulb flashes on and off. its driving me nuts!
Last edited by UKtruckman; 07/26/2012 2:36 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | i am getting 11v at the termination blocks for the headlights when the switch is pulled out but not at all points. If your switch is designed as original you will only have voltage at one inner fender terminal post with the switch pulled out, the Headlight post. with the switch out and you hit the dimmer switch you voltage will change between the headlight terminal and the hi beam. Have you checked the ground wire for each headlight? Clean ground Also try to test the headlights independently, Bring Voltage to the pigtail Hi and Lo lugs. Once you verified your headlights work then you can continue troubleshooting I have seen Orignal NOS Headlight switches are on EBay for around 80.00 U.S. | | |
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