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#86878 02/21/2005 3:36 PM | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 48 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 48 | I've stripped out my heater for repair - and the wiring has been messed about.
There are 3 or 4 coloured wires going from the pull/twist heater switch to a block connector on the side of the heater ducting case, but one of the wires on this connector has been cut. Also, the fan has no wire leading to it (but still works if it has a live feed).
Is the connector block some kind of thermostat or motorised flap, or a resistor to give different fan speeds? Should a wire run from this connector block out to feed the fan itself?
I don't have a wiring diagram so any clues would be much appreciated
Regards Limey | | |
#86879 02/21/2005 5:58 PM | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 80 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 80 | Limey If the cut wire is brown and/or orange then I would say that is your wire that goes to the fan. The select switch gets 12volts power. Wire may be brn. or orange then it goes though this switch and comes out one of the other wires to the resistor block that cuts down the voltage the the fan. here is an example. Hope it helps blower diagram | | |
#86880 02/21/2005 7:07 PM | Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 499 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 499 |
'67 GMC 3/4 292 4spd
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#86881 02/21/2005 7:13 PM | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 48 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 48 | Thanks Junior, I'll take a closer look | | |
#86882 07/02/2005 4:22 AM | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 10 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 10 | When I had the same situation in my 66 GMC I replaced the entire conrol circuit with a Bosch unit out of a late 70s Volvo. A vast improvement over stock [even if working perfectly] The only thing that made the entire job take more than 10 minutes was figuring out a mount for the big resistor. Now has FOUR real speeds in addition to OFF.
IF YOU DIDN'T TEST IT, IT DOESN'T WORK
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