The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Switch a Carter Carb for a Rochester?

Hi:

I'm tired of my 62 Chev 235 running poorly. Does anyone know if I can switch to a Carter carb? Is there a particular model that will be a direct replacement?

Thanks!

Glen

The carter YF for Chevys is a replacement. They are pretty rare though. It seems to me you should be able to get the Model B running good.

Take a look at my rebuilt carb post. They test the carb before they send it back. They were professional and gave fast service for a great value which even included a small repair. They rebuilt my 65 Rochester B.

Here's their website.

Thanks guys:

I did rebuild my carb (although it doesn't look as good as yours Lugnutz). Still not working right. Truck runs well at any speed, but as soon as I step on it (even a little), it starts missing.

I've changed distributor cap, rotor, points. Reset points and timing (multiple times) and still misses under acceleration.

Thoughts?

I put a Holley 2bbl on my son's 66 GMC (305 V6), which dramatically improved how it idled and ran. Mr. Gasket sells a $15 adaptor plate that I believe changes small 4 bolt Rochester to Holley 4 bolt. Carbs are about $280 new from Summit or Jeggs, but then they are rebuildable and you can find information on tuning them. See http://www.6066gmcguy.org/holley.htm don't know if it will work with your application or not, but it sure was a good way to get old GMC carb out of the picture.

Not sure that'll work. Mine's a 2-bolt.

Check the vacuum advance on your distributor, accelerator pump in your carb, or check for a bent metering rod in your carb. There are a thousand Rochester Bs for every Carter YF and most of them can be made to run just fine. General Motors didn't sell something for more than 30 years that didn't work! Take another look at the problem, I'm sure you'll be able to figure it out.

Best wishes,

Les

Thanks Les. The only thing I haven't checked is the metering rod. Hmmm...

You won't find a metering rod in a Roch. Model B.

I guess that's why I hadn't checked it. Hah!

Actually, I'm now thinking I have a burnt exhaust valve. It suddenly occurred to me, it's popping at idle and missing as I increase revs. I put a rag at the end of the tail pipe, it sucks the rag in slightly when it pops. Sound like a burnt exhaust valve?