The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Brake Parts for 53 gmc 353

i need a brake return spring for this truck and i seen a part number for one that would work or could be made to work on this forum somewhere but i didnt need the part at the time and i didnt write it down can someone please help? And also i was wondering if the rear axle wheel bearings are lubricated with oil from the differential?

Hy randy0563, welcome, could you tell us front or rear brake spring please? The answer to your question about the rear wheel bearings is yes they are lubricated by the diff. lube, hope that helps.

Its the rear brakes

And yes t does help thanks. The bearings on the one side where dry, no oil present is there a problem i should be looking for?

Hy randy0563, look for a low oil level in the diff., when cold the oil should come up to the level of the fill plug bottom thread, the fill plug is located in the rear cover of the differential housing. Some people like to jack the truck up first on one side, then the other and let it sit in that position for ten minutes or so, so the oil runs down to the outer ends of the axle tube to lubricate the bearings, but I think if the lube level is correct, the oil will find its way to the bearings, it's up to you. Now as to the return springs, I'm going to assume you have the 15"X4" rear brakes, I can't find one kit that has all the components. The kit that has the long springs 2 3/4" is Raybestos p/n H500 $3.04 Can.dollars at RockAuto, this kit has eight springs in it enough to do the whole axle, the kit that has the short springs in it is Raybestos p/n H337 it has enough short springs to do one wheel, plus two springs you don't need $5.58 Can. dollars at RockAuto, hope that helps.

thank you 3B yes it has the 15"x4" brakes. And when I checked the rear diff oil level it looked good. Ran out of the fill plug a little bit.

finally found time to work on my truck again. i put new master cylinder and all new wheel cylinders on, bled the brakes and now they dont release. What could the problem be? hydrovac maybe?

In my 38 manual it calls for using wheel bearing grease when putting rear wheel bearings back in so the bearings will be protected until the differential lube works it's way to the hubs.

Hy randy0563, when you installed the master cylinder did you make sure to have a clearance between the pedal linkage and the master cylinder piston? Without that clearance the master cylinder piston might not return all the way to uncover the compensating port, and therefore hold pressure on the system, hope that helps.

Thanks 3B that fixed that problem. Now the next lol. Ive bled the brakes a couple times and the peddle still remains squishy until I pump it a couple times. And i started bleeding at hydrovac and than farthermost wheel cylinder to closest. Any solutions? And also thanks for the info on wheel bearings kb3csw.

Hy randy0563, do you have your brakes adjusted up properly?

i believe so. there is a slight drag on them when I turn the wheel by hand.

Hy randy0563, a slight drag is no indication of correct brake adjustment. I like to tighten the brakes shoes up to the point that I can't turn the wheel, then back the adjuster off no more than seven notches. Then I take the vehicle for a ride, and check drum temparatures, and readjust if required, hope that helps.

hi 3B, adjusted all brakes and still squishy pedal. have to pump it 3 to 5 times to build pressure. Could there still be some air hiding in there possibly? Or any other suggestions?

Hy randy0563, squishy brake pedals are basically an indication of air in the system. Bleed highest Hydrovac bleeder first then the one on the barrel section, then left rear, right rear, left front, right front, hope that helps.

went around and bled the brakes a couple more times and still squishy pedal. I think its better but not right yet. Keep trying or any other suggestions?

bled the brakes a few more times using the sequence you told me and its better but cant seem to get the last little bit of air out. Took it for a test drive around the yard and they work good after i pump the pedal once.

There are usually 2 bleed screws on the Hydro-vac, also bleed the Hydro-vac first, but also last. Bleed before the wheels cylinders and after. With the engine shutoff/not running.

If you need to pump it one time fast to get a hard pedal that sounds to me like the shoes are to far away from the drums.

You want heavy brake shoe drag when turning the wheel by hand. Make an adjustment, then step on the brake pedal to center the shoes and check it again...keep doing this until there is no difference in drag before and after appling the brakes, then go to the next wheel.

Hope this helps...

Mike B

ok i will check it out. Thanks a lot for your help. learning lots on this project here never really worked on these old classics before.