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7 members (1955 1 Series, Lightholder's Dad, 55shaker, DuckRancher, Jon G, TexasA&M48Truck, 1 invisible),
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Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,200 Posts1,057,405 Members48,471 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 | http://s1073.photobucket.com/albums/w387/Hamilton235/I just had the exhaust put on my truck yesterday. I was able to take a few pics but I was asked to hurry due to having another cuatomer in line for some work. They are not the best but some are good and show some of the detail. Hope you like!!!! | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Looks good. Will you be adding this exhaust pipe heat shield under the bed wood where the exhaust "humps up" under the bed? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 | Yes I will be. I have a piece of stainless that I'm going to form and make my own. I should have the truck completely finished up by the end of this weekend if everything goes well. I told the exhaust shop to leave about 4 inches between the bed floor and exhaust system at any point but you know how that goes...After I questioned him about it he told me that the tail pipe will not get hot enough to hurt the wood floor. i then asked well what about the finish on the wood? His reply was let's hope not....
I will not be using them again for sure. He did the job the way he felt it needed to be done not as I asked. By the way he made the comment I've never put an exhuast on a truck with a wooden floor in it before it looks nice. I said lets hope it stays that way if not I hope you have some wood working abilities!!!! Long story short now I need to drop it down a few inches and make the shield to protect my bed. This was the only portion of the project that I have had someone else do and of corse I have to fix it...LOL If you want it done correctly you've got to do it yourself!!! OK done venting!!! | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | Dude, you're killin' us!!! Your truck looks like it just rolled off the assembly line. And mine?? Not even close.
It looks too good! But then again, I'm jealous.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | | | | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 1,300 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 1,300 | Wait for others to comment but considering how close they got the exhaust to the bed wood, I would consider aluminum over stainless. Aluminum disapates heat better...just a thought and only opinion.
Your truck looks great! | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Yep, your truck is making a lot of us envious.  Hope the exhaust rework won't be too tough to do.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 | Thanks for the compliments. I will be able to drop it and use a heat shield. It was a frame off over the last 3+ years and everything is new or restored befor putting it back on the truck. I've never invested in a tube bender due to only needing one every couple of years so i just pay for the exhaust work. I may now cause I just noticed they broke the tab on the manifold and tried welding it up. Looks like (*). I foung a nice manual hydraulic unit for $200 that i may pick up. They must have used an impact. I tightened down the old exhaust by hand and the manifold was fully inspected before painting and putting on the motor. I have a spare motor so I will have to swap the manifolds.
I'm very picky on my work and am called a perfectionist all the time. LOL It sometimes causes me hours of extra work but to me it's what separates the nice cars from the awesome cars. Thanks again for all the compliments.
Last edited by cletis; 06/23/2012 7:49 PM. Reason: language
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 | Wait for others to comment but considering how close they got the exhaust to the bed wood, I would consider aluminum over stainless. Aluminum disapates heat better...just a thought and only opinion.
Your truck looks great! Thanks, I will be under the truck tomorrow. I think I can drop the exhaust about 2 inches and add the shield. Good idea on the aluminum. I may have some sheet left.
Last edited by cletis; 06/23/2012 7:51 PM. Reason: removed multiple quotes
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | Is that stainless pipe? Did you ceramic coat it? Does it have an engine in it? lol No pics under the hood.
~Jim
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 64 | It's just standard galved pipe. Nothing special. As much as it will see a wet road it will probably never rust. It does have an engine. 235 I6. I will be adding some engine pics soon. | | |
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