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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | I currently have a synthetic gear oil in the transmission of my '56 half ton and notice the gears grinding once it gets hot and I try to shift into 1st. I've read here that the synthetics can cause the synchros in older transmissions to have difficulty and I'm wondering if that's what's going on. The transmission is a Saginaw 3-speed manufactured in 1967.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | get some 85-140 non synthetic. it is not a slippery as the synthetic and will actually slow things down and make shifting gears smoother. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,836 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,836 | The Saginaw has a fully-synchronized 1st. gear, so if it's grinding you've either got a bad blocker ring in the synchro, or the lube is too slippery. Try draining the transmission, run a solvent like mineral spirits or Diesel fuel for a few minutes, and refill with straight 90 weight or 85W-140. I had a similar problem with a Kawasaki motorcycle after adding some Kroil to the engine oil to free up the rings after years in storage- - - -the clutch started slipping! There was a common crankcase between the engine and the transmission, and the Kroil was causing the wet clutch to slip. A flush and refill solved the problem. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 27 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 27 | Go To NAPA and get some GL4 gear oil | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | Jerry, when I put the solvent or whatever in the transmission, do I drive it around like that for a short time and then drain or just fill it, let it sit, and then draiin it?
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,836 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,836 | Don't drive- - - -the solvent destroys the lubrication qualities. Just jack up a rear wheel and run it in gear for a few minutes. Non-loaded running doesn't hurt anything, but you don't want to put any stress on the gears and bearings. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | So I just checked out some Valvoline 85-140 at my FLAPS. It says it is rated for GL4 and GL5 applications but does not say whether it is synthetic or non-synthetic. Do synthetic gear oils always say "synthetic" on the container? There is also a Lucas gear oil that says it is "conventional oil" and GL4. Will either of these be OK?
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,418 ODSS Lawman | | ODSS Lawman Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,418 | Joe
Get the Valvoline. If it were synthetic it would say on the bottle.
SWEET Sergeant At Arms: Old Dominion Stovebolt Society BUNS?!?!?!Where we're going, we don't need no buns.....1950 GMC 450 1951 Chevy 1/2-TonThe GreenMachineIn the Stovebolt Gallery | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 |
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | Well I just did this--drained the gear oil out, ran mineral spirits in the trans for a bit, drained that, and then filled it with 85-140 non synthetic. The transmission still grinds when shifting into first. The only difference is it now grinds when shifting into reverse as well. It usually doesn't do it until I've been driving for a while. Sometimes it won't do it at all. At this point, I guess I'm looking at a blocker ring or an adjustment. Does that make sense?
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | I'd adjust the clutch and lower the idle down some and see what happens. If it still grinds going into first and reverse its surgery time.
Last edited by don stocker; 07/05/2012 12:30 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | I'll check my idle speed and the pedal freeplay. It's been a while since I've looked at the shift/clutch linkages, so I'll get under there and see if there's anything obviously wrong.
1956 Chevy 3200
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 814 | I think this problem might be linkage-related because when I use a little extra force pulling the shift in toward me on 1st and reverse, it doesn't grind.
1956 Chevy 3200
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