The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop 350 engine parts list?

My son and I have decided on a 350 engine for our 51 chevy pickup. We want the power range to be from an idle to about 5500 rpms since we don't plan on 1/4 mile racing this truck. BUT... we DO want to get to 55 in a hurry. Bottom end power is like candy for us. My question is , without spending more than about $2000.00, what are the technical specs that we need to look for? Cylinder heads, compression ratios to keep within? Hydraulic cams and tappets or go with the roller? Intake design? Carburetor? Camshaft specs? Thanks in advance. Brian and Grant

My father's '66 has a 350 set up like you mentioned. It has an Edelbrock 4bbl, I think 650cfm, late model vortec heads, a Sealed Power CS274 flat tappet cam, some aluminum intake, don't know what, Edelbrock performer or something probably. Can find out more if you want. I think the rest is just stock stuff. Runs fantastic and pulls great all the way down to idle. He drives real easy most of the time, has an M-20 Muncie and shifts @ 1,600-2,000, runs great down there. Driving real easy like that @ 50MPH or so and slipping it in neutral going downhill or stopping we figured he gets nearly 20MPG, runs real clean, too. Probably makes 300HP or so. I've driven it and like it a lot. Shouldn't cost anywhere near $2,000 to put together.

If you want to know more I can find out tomorrow.

-Chaz

Not sure where you're from in Jersey so I picked central Jersey as an example for parts:

http://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/3071036410.html ($399)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K1102/ ($99.95)

http://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/3067228549.html ($120)

http://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/3000385717.html ($125)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-SBCKIT1-300/?rtype=10 ($232)

http://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/3021111755.html ($150)

Total parts: $1,125.95
Summit shipping: $0
Summit Handling charge: $12.95
Machine shop charges for block: $600 (rough estimate)


Grand total if you assemble yourself: $1,738 (not factoring your bargaining skills with craigslist parts or odds and ends I may have neglected to include.

$600 to bore a 350?!?!? darn, I need to move to AK.



Vortec heads $100 http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/3018199777.html

The Sealed Power CS274 cam is about $40 from Northern Auto.

Master kit is $199 from them, and I think comes with the CS274 cam.

I wouldn't put crappy headers on it, personally. I like the "boat anchor" manifolds. $50? I think I've seen new ones for $60.

Block, $<100, does not need to be 4-bolt. The $125 4-bolt sounds like a good deal, though.

Edelbrock intake, $50 http://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/3014662224.html

Machine shop block bore, do NOT line bore. $<200

Holley 600, $<100 http://southjersey.craigslist.org/pts/3062597586.html

Cost $850

It's a real good running combo, I really like it myself. Cheap, too.

EDIT; the heads say they have a crack by the valve seat. At any rate, here's some for $325 with the intake. http://delaware.craigslist.org/pts/3069814010.html

Call it $1,025

Forgot, You'll need to grind the exhaust manifold ports a bit with a die grinder and grind the casting stubs (??) a bit to clear the valve covers. Pretty easy, and all you need is a $20 horror freight die grinder and a carbide burr.

They call them "corvette style" or "rams horn" manifolds. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Dorman-25-Inch-Corvette-Style-Exhaust-Manifolds-Pair,58966.html $114 for two. There's some nasty ones on ebay for $60+$25. Dang it, someone else besides me must like them, too.

I have a few sets already I've collected, you may just want to use the later vortec head stock manifolds that need no mods. (For me the "mods" are a fifteen minute job, but I don't know what that would be for you.)

They do flow great, though. 383 flow test

Might have a look at Edelbrocks' website. They sell combination packages ( carb, intake, heads, cam, etc ) that have been engineered to work together.

Everything in Alaska has a premium. I was figuring on bore, hone, cam bearing install and minimal deck surfacing. Your figure is missing lifters and is assuming the heads are usable as is. I'd rather opt for heads that have already been reconditioned than take a chance on a set of used ones covered in carbon.

Why do you recommend NOT line boring the block? I was under the impression that "line boring" was to make sure the hole created by the main caps were all in a perfect line? As well as perfectly 90 degrees to the cylinders?
I could have been misinformed though. If this is not the case, please advise. Brian

What is the advantage to running "vortec" heads? Do they have a smaller combustion chamber? OR bigger intake CC's or exhaust CC's? I assume they are center-bolt valve cover design. Do they usually have the bigger 2.02/1.60 valves? They are cast iron or aluminum?
Also, We are looking for a lopey idle, something that sounds good and comes to life when you crack the throttle. Thanks for any help. Brian

Vortec heads have a more efficient combustion chamber than standard heads. The intake runners are about equivalent to those of a good flowing "fuelie" head. Most vortec heads come with a 1.94/1.50 valve combo which is probably sufficient for what you're wanting to do. Personally, I prefer the older fuelie (camelhump) heads because the castings have an older iron composite which contains more nickel and they were cast in the U.S. They're also not centerbolt and look more in place under the hood (again my personal preference). Alot of the vortec heads were cast in Mexico. I recommended the block in the above link for the same reason....higher nickel content and a 4 bolt main 010 casting, while not necessary is hard to pass up at $125. Call a local, reputable machine shop for their recommendation on boring....everyone has their own opinion on this forum. I'd also be curious to see what they recommend and what their price for block work is....hot tank, magnaflux, bore, hone, deck surface and cam bearing install.

Ok, that clears up alot of my questions about the vortec heads. I already have a 4 bolt main 350 block at the machine shop getting hot tanked, magnafluxed, and bored .030" over. The crank rod journals have to be turned .010" under. I am not a big fan of turning cranks, but if it needs it, I have no choice really.
The machine shop in my area, (which comes highly recommended by local dirt track racers) is charging me 50 to hot tank the block and crank. 35 to magnanflux them and $55 to bore the cylinders.another 50 to turn the crank down. .... doesn't seem to bad to me.? As far as theinternals, I am still taking suggestions... Brian

Well, let me give some background. My father used to build engines for funny cars, dragsters, etc, so I figure he knows how to put a 350 together. The reason for not line boring is that if the guy gets the rear main cap tilted front of back it will mess up the thrust surface. And it moves the crank up in the block and seals, away from center, not great. It's just one more thing for a ham-fisted guy to mess up.

Also, it really is totally unnecessary. If a block ran for 100,000 or 200,000 in a truck, you're gold. It's kind of a part of the old "balancing and blueprinting" scam. And it is a scam. (The extra power, if any, comes from decking the block. (Higher compression)) -There was a guy around here that balanced crankshafts, and messed a lot of 'em up. At the drags the cranks would break from the horrific inbalance. Yet, it still didn't really hurt the 1/4 mile times. It's just a waste of money, at best. Spend your money on the stuff that counts. My 2 cents.

That sounds good, price sounds good, too. Honing isn't included in the $55 is it?

Around here bore & hone would be about $100.

I like buying good used stuff, personally, I have a pretty good eye and find a lot of deals like that. "Reconditioned" stuff can be a gamble, too, IMO.

You are wrong in that the Northern Auto kit includes lifters & also I believe the CS274 cam. Much better deal than Summit.

Brian, also check this out just noticed it; 350 Chevy "torque kit"

I really think the regular Northern kit with the vortec heads and CS274 cam makes a fantasic driver, though. The "torque kit" I'm guessing is going to be more of a rockcrawler deal, probably short-winded like a stock inliner.

Sorry...just not seeing the lifters http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?InventoryId=35115 but still not a bad deal for the cam.

The lifters come with the master kit for $199. It also has a cam, I think the SP CS274. (But I'd ask to be sure.)

" Chevy 350 1969-1980 Master Kit

Includes:

Sealed Power Camshaft
Speed Pro stock style Lifters
Melling stock style Timing set
Silvolite stock style Pistons
Hastings Cast Piston Rings
Federal Mogul Rod Bearings
Federal Mogul Main Bearings
Durabond stock style Cam Bearings
Melling stock style Oil Pump
Melling stock style Frost Plugs
Mr. Gasket stock style Gasket Set "

Dang, you might have solved my lengthy oil leak problems with using the rams horns.

That price does not include honing, that is an additional $25.00. They are really affordable and I can't wait to get the block back and start running a tap through all the holes and blow out every crevice and port. Get it ready for the Camshaft and crankshaft. I have yet to find a camshaft that has the grind I am looking for. I suppose manufacturers could make a custom grind to acheive the results I want? Pricey? Still lookin round for the right deal on Vortec Heads. Brian

$80 with honing is a real good deal. What exactly are you looking for in a cam? For me as a driver the "stock" CS274's great. Did you not like any of the cams from Northern?

Also, be careful cleaning holes with a tap. I would just blow them out real good if they aren't nasty (as in bolts can't be easily threaded in by hand), if you do run a tap through them be careful to not let it get cross-threaded, and make sure you use a good tap, stuff like sears and the like sell will cut oversized sloppy threads.

Hope you find a deal on those Vortec heads.

Chaz

find your local racers swap meet. the vortec heads are no longer allowed in many classes, so you can get them dirt cheap.

that is how I got mine for my boat motor. I would run between a 262 and 270 cam.

keep your compression about 9.0-9.4 and run 87 octane. if your up to 10.3 (vortec's and flat tops), then you will be in the 91/93 octane area

Scott,
I do plan on running flattop pistons, that is what came out of the engine when I tore it apart, and they didn't seem to be in bad shape? Thanks for the cam recommendation, that's what I was asking, duration numbers and lift numbers. what to look for and what is too much where I am gonna smack the pistons? Like I said, I do want to have somewhat of a lopey idle. Though not much concerned with having to run high test gas.

I thought you wanted bottom end power? Lopey idle stuff hates lower speed operation, makes power higher up. But, if you do want a longer duration cam the choices are nearly endless.

Oh, and a tip I just remembered, if you don't already know, go to the parts store and get an air filter element for an '83 Olds Cutlass 350 diesel. It's a 14"x4" filter with tons of dirt holding capacity, and wonderful flow that costs $5-8 dollars.

Also, forgot to mention, the tap you want to use is a GH2 or GH3. (The two or three being the oversize in thousandts.)