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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 44
H
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 44
im rodding a 38 pu(www.hotrod.ie)im using the origional column with a fatman IFS.I shortened the column and am putting a bearing and seal at the bottom of column.i want to replace the top bushing.the 38 shop manual suggests driving out the old one and using a mast jacket bearing driver toseat it in the proper place.i dont have one but i could get one turned up if i knew the distance the bushing has to travel down the column.also does the earth wire in the bushing travel on the inside or outside the column thanx herriot


C MON LETS GO
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,228
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,228
If you look at the top of the column by the steering wheel, you will see where the diameter is smaller and a small hole has been punched in the tube. The upper bearing/bushing sets on the tang of metal from the small hole, and the small diameter is where the bushing is pressed into. The original bushings (no bearings) is made of a wood type material with some sort of leather like stuff on the inside where the center shaft rides. On top of the bushing is a brass ring with a few ears pressed into the bushing to hold it in place. One of the ears has the horn wire soldered to it and the wire runs down through a hole in the bushing. Its all insulated from any metal. The wire runs the length of the column and exits just above the steering gear on the frame side. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_54chevyparts/06/395.HTM

Joe

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 44
H
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
H Offline
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Posts: 44
nice truck joe.there is no tang in the column it must be broken off.when i removed the top bush it came out very easy and was broken in two pieces..it looks like the distance the bush travels down the tube is critical to getting the horn working.before i removed the top bush i tried to stick a bit of wire in the square hole but it was blocked by the bush .is this correct.i can get the position correct by trial and error .any info on getting the horn working appreciated.all parts are new from JIM CARTER.THANX CHRIS, IRELAND

Last edited by herriot; 05/23/2012 7:19 PM.

C MON LETS GO
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,228
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Feb 2000
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They are a little tricky to get to work. I found the rubber under the horn button is pretty stiff so it takes some effort to push, and then it has to travel a ways to hit the horn ring, at least on mine anyway.

I have made a couple of different top bushings since I couldn't find one back when I was building the truck. The first one was made from hard wood, don't remember which kind, but it worked pretty good. I bored the center hole slightly big so it always bothered me that the shaft would move slightly. I am now using a teflon bushing with a needle bearing in the center. The bearing takes most of the load, and the teflon absorbs the bumps and is a insulator. I made it long then cut the horn wire to match. If I really work the steering in a slow parking lot or such, the horn honks every now and then. I leave it alone since it works pretty good most of the time.

Your new bushing should press in pretty tight, they should be about the diameter of the tube before it narrows down. Just press it in till you can see it in the hole of the tube and adjust the horn "S" wire till it works with out honking all the time. Spread the "S" wires so they touch the steering wheel metal as they go through, thats where it gets is ground. I used a deep socket to drive mine in, but then the whole column was out of the truck so I could slide the tube off and on the gear box easily. A piece of pipe should get the job done, just don't bend the brass horn ring /contact. It can be reused on a home made bushing if you are careful in prying it off. I would replace the wire with a good heavy insulated wire if you go to working on it.

Good luck with it. Its not to hard to get working once you figure out how its suppose to work, its just not the best idea they had.

Joe

The whole system works off of ground. You should have a horn relay somewhere. The relay powers the horns, and the horn button supplies the negative side to activate the relay. Its a safety feature so you are not running positive voltage up the steering column. If the wire does get rubbed through, the most that will happen is the horn honks, if it was a positive voltage system, you could get plenty of sparks and maybe a fire.


Joined: Feb 2010
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H
Wrench Fetcher
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H Offline
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Posts: 44
thanx joe you have been a great help.i will run an article on this in my website.CHRIS


C MON LETS GO

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