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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 271
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: May 2012
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Has anyone used LMC's full floor replacement panel?

I'm wondering if it would just be too hard to handle dropping in a full floor all at once. I also wonder how accurate it is dimensionally because if it's off there's no adjacent panel to adjust the size. You'd have to cut it in half and add or remove material.

For the condition my floor is in I think it's the right way to go as long as it's good quality. Of course the cost with shipping is pretty steep too...

Joined: Mar 2012
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Shop Shark
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which part number from LMC? I used what I think is their "full floor panel" for my 64 C10 drivers side floor and it was not truely full floor- it extended from past the seam behind the pedals to just past where the pan rose under the front part of the seat and from the sill to the edge of the transmission hump- I remember feeling a bit ripped off becasue 1) it wasn't truely full floor 2) the added cost to ship this "oversized" and 3) for what I paid it wasn't a perfect match- closer than some panels I've used but not close enough to warrant the cost- as it was I ended up leaving as much original steel in as I could and hacked up the floor pan half to just replace what was rusted out and gone- I didn't like the dimple they had for the cab mount it didn't look like the original at all- another reason I hacked up the repair panel- I wanted to keep the original mounting hole/dimple.


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1948-53-54 "Mixed Bag" Chevy Stakebed
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1952 Chevy 3/4-Ton
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Joined: Mar 2012
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Shop Shark
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1954 Chevy 3/4-Ton Chevy
"Mo"
1948-53-54 "Mixed Bag" Chevy Stakebed
"Basket Case"
1952 Chevy 3/4-Ton
"as yet un-named"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Lots of pictures
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'Bolter
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I think it was 1106AX from Dynacorn or 38-7918-T for LMC

LMC is here:
Full Floor with seat riser


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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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the Dynacorn parts are good quality, but if you really need that much of the floor you might consider looking for a better cab, it won't be a matter of "dropping in" the replacement, you're looking at rebuilding the cab on top the new floor

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
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'Bolter
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From that catalog page I went with panels 4-5-6-7 and that was a lot of work. To be honest with you I don't know how to even approach that panel fit. You would have to brace the cab in a substantial manner and I would study closely where you would be making the new attachment welds because it will require some planning.

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'Bolter
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I have to do a better assesment still as to what i really need to replace. the problem is i think i need more than just the front floor but probably not the entire floor either. i think i have rust through up under the seat riser but it stops before the end of the cab...

I got the truck for $650 and I cre more about outward appearance and functionality than original shape of a floor that will be covered (I think).

I may just form something with sheetmetal myself. I may even be able to get a stainless drop big enough to "drop in"

If I need a new cab it's going to be a long wait to get one... Any idea what a descent cab may go for now'a'days?


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'Bolter
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I think I may take out the seat riser and cut out the back of the floor up to the middle of the cab leaving a 1-2" flange to overlap on and drop in a flat piece of 14 ga. I can weld that in while the front is still "intact" and then do the 4-5-6-7 ( front floor and inner kick panels RH/LH) after the fact. That way I don't ever remove all the floor at once...

I could always try the back piece first as I wouldn't have much tied up in it but a piece of sheetmetal. Then in the absolute worst case, if it doesn't work, I haven't wasted a bunch of $$$ on panels. At that point I could try to shop for a cab...

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New Guy
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I used a dynacorn full floor on my 54 3/4 ton it is a lot of work .
the fit was perfect, but make sure you take a lot of pictures befor starting. mesure all openings carefully top of door frame to floor pan, door opening width and so on. good luck with it.

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'Bolter
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Thanks for the encouragement!

Still waiting to get a couple of hours to do a true initial assessment of the damage... Getting pretty anxious!

I should have negotiated leaving it in our driveway for a week before moving it to where it will rest for a while. 5 miles might as well be 50 when you have two kids under 2 that need tending to! smile


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